Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: Climberdude
Page Views: 425 total · 7/month
Shared By: Climberdude on Apr 2, 2014
Admins: Justin Johnsen, Kyle Stapp, SCPC

You & This Route


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Description

Slab up to a new bolt at 25+' (instead of the 30+') with no gear. Under the route and slightly left is a right upwardly slanting ramp that will get you to the first bolt at about 5.6 or 5.7. Also a more direct start on steeper slab weighs in at 8+.

Climb crack to shuts. There are perma-biners up there for easy descent and they appear good, but they have been there since 2012.

I know. Before the flame war starts, we tried leading on trad. Falling on gear ripped the rock off the cliff. Luckily no one was seriously injured. One such failure did create a great finger pocket reducing the grade down from 11 to its current 10a.

Location

20' left of Dopamine.
Line with very high Bolt at tiny crack.

Protection

Bolts or for the purist nuts.

Photos

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Climberdude
Kraley
  5.10a
Climberdude   Kraley
  5.10a
Jon added a new lower bolt. Pg13-R Mar 9, 2015