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Routes in The Grail

Air France S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Crusade S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Divine Vessel S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Eminent Domain S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Excalibur S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Farcical Aquatic Ceremony S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Goodness, The S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Greyhound S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Hoarse Platitudes S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Homeostasis S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Homo Faber S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Honeycomb, The S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Khaleesi S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Last Supper S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Madness, The S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Magnum Opus S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Mandate For The Masses S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Mantis S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Merely a Flesh Wound S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Mesquiter S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
No Ordinary Moments S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Planned Obsolescence S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Sadness, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Sangreal S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
The, The S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Total Depravity S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Vesper S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Voyager One S 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Watery Tart S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Way of the Peaceful Bolter, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Way of the Peaceful Warrior, The S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Who's There S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Sport, 160 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Jeff Baldwin
Page Views: 7,450 total, 164/month
Shared By: Jonathan Siegrist on Mar 25, 2014 with updates
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

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Description

You've probably heard of this route. And for good reason. It's truly incredible.

To the left of the little cave, climb up some orange stone and around an arete onto a beautiful blue face and finish up and right to a 2 bolt anchor at a stance. Another option is to climb the pillar right of the cave via a newer route to a nice full on ledge. Both first pitch options are around 11+.

Launch from either belay onto the stunning blue headwall. Edge your way to the left side of the slash and follow it up and right through some harder terrain to a memorable runnel finish. Absolutely stellar climbing on world class stone.

Location

To the left of the Grail on the obvious, tall, blue, right facing wall.

Protection

12 draws

Photos

Climbed on 1/10/17 and there were no rap rings or chains at the anchor, just hangers. Did I miss something?

This is a stellar route! One of the best pitches I have ever had the pleasure of climbing on! Jan 12, 2017
seanmo63
  5.12a
seanmo63  
  5.12a
There is a sinker hand jam immediately above the crux and the supposedly pumpy water runnel streaks above the bulge are 5.10 fist crack with a little bit of creative footwork. Apr 17, 2016
Alan Collins
Bend, OR
 
Alan Collins   Bend, OR
 
Great route! The position, the moves, and the rock are really all 4/4 stars! Hard for 5.12b in the canyon, but a bit of sandbaggsy should be expected for a line of this quality. As you first approach the canyon, this line is the first to stand out.

Be ready for a heady lead in comparison to other lines in the area. The 5.11 pitch was on, only to be followed by a sandbagged pitch of 5.12b. Stoked to get a onsight! Mar 26, 2016
Cha Tate
Saint George, UT
  5.12b
Cha Tate   Saint George, UT
  5.12b
I have tried all the first pitch options (including off width up the right crack) and like the 11+ pitch (I would rate it 5.11a) right of the cave. Pull around the bulge and slither up some great stone with slab/stemming/jamming options, then up and right to the two bold anchor. Then pull stout moves after the first bolt to easier terrain leading to the traverse roof crux. Unbelievable movement on truly fine stone. May 27, 2015
SCherry
Boulder, CO
  5.12b
SCherry   Boulder, CO
  5.12b
Amazing and unreal pitch of climbing. As everyone says, the stone is superb, the moves engaging, fun and unique. Do this pitch!

After gathering as much beta as I could about the approach pitch here is my recommendation: Warm up first, then skip the harder 11+ options for pitches as they are just not that fun. Climb the 5.10a pitch (this is one route left of the 10d thats the left most route on the large blue/grey face) up to the Air France ledge on the right side of the gulley. Set up shop here on this comfy ledge, then clip 2 bolts and stem over to the left wall and climb Vesper. Dec 4, 2014
Erik S. Gillis
Salt Lake City, Utah
  5.12b
Erik S. Gillis   Salt Lake City, Utah
  5.12b
Pull some committing moves after the Hueco to a rewarding rest. The amazing slanting crack gets harder and harder as you climb up it till you get to the body position intensive crux at the lip. Amazing slopers, awesome crimps, and amazing position at the crux. Add the incredible stone and you have a super classic pitch of climbing! Only drawback is the hanging belay. Nov 17, 2014
Pat Mac
Tempe
  5.12b
Pat Mac   Tempe
  5.12b
I have never been to France. With that said this is the best piece of stone I have ever had the privilege to climb on. The first pitch is worth the second pitch...DON'T MISS THIS CLIMB....... May 5, 2014