Type: Sport, 160 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Jeff Baldwin
Page Views: 9,103 total · 159/month
Shared By: Jonathan Siegrist on Mar 25, 2014 with updates from Brian in SLC
Admins: Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick, Greg Opland

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You've probably heard of this route. And for good reason. It's truly incredible.

To the left of the little cave, climb up some orange stone and around an arete onto a beautiful blue face and finish up and right to a 2 bolt anchor at a stance. Another option is to climb the pillar right of the cave via a newer route to a nice full on ledge. Both first pitch options are around 11+.

Launch from either belay onto the stunning blue headwall. Edge your way to the left side of the slash and follow it up and right through some harder terrain to a memorable runnel finish. Absolutely stellar climbing on world class stone.


To the left of the Grail on the obvious, tall, blue, right facing wall.


12 draws


Pat Mac
Salt Lake City
Pat Mac   Salt Lake City
I have never been to France. With that said this is the best piece of stone I have ever had the privilege to climb on. The first pitch is worth the second pitch...DON'T MISS THIS CLIMB....... May 5, 2014
Erik S. Gillis
Salt Lake City, Utah
Erik S. Gillis   Salt Lake City, Utah
Pull some committing moves after the Hueco to a rewarding rest. The amazing slanting crack gets harder and harder as you climb up it till you get to the body position intensive crux at the lip. Amazing slopers, awesome crimps, and amazing position at the crux. Add the incredible stone and you have a super classic pitch of climbing! Only drawback is the hanging belay. Nov 17, 2014
Boulder, CO
SCherry   Boulder, CO
Amazing and unreal pitch of climbing. As everyone says, the stone is superb, the moves engaging, fun and unique. Do this pitch!

After gathering as much beta as I could about the approach pitch here is my recommendation: Warm up first, then skip the harder 11+ options for pitches as they are just not that fun. Climb the 5.10a pitch (this is one route left of the 10d thats the left most route on the large blue/grey face) up to the Air France ledge on the right side of the gulley. Set up shop here on this comfy ledge, then clip 2 bolts and stem over to the left wall and climb Vesper. Dec 4, 2014
Cha Tate
Saint George, UT
Cha Tate   Saint George, UT
I have tried all the first pitch options (including off width up the right crack) and like the 11+ pitch (I would rate it 5.11a) right of the cave. Pull around the bulge and slither up some great stone with slab/stemming/jamming options, then up and right to the two bold anchor. Then pull stout moves after the first bolt to easier terrain leading to the traverse roof crux. Unbelievable movement on truly fine stone. May 27, 2015
Alan Collins
Bend, OR
Alan Collins   Bend, OR
Great route! The position, the moves, and the rock are really all 4/4 stars! Hard for 5.12b in the canyon, but a bit of sandbaggsy should be expected for a line of this quality. As you first approach the canyon, this line is the first to stand out.

Be ready for a heady lead in comparison to other lines in the area. The 5.11 pitch was on, only to be followed by a sandbagged pitch of 5.12b. Stoked to get a onsight! Mar 26, 2016
There is a sinker hand jam immediately above the crux and the supposedly pumpy water runnel streaks above the bulge are 5.10 fist crack with a little bit of creative footwork. Apr 17, 2016
Ken Noyce
Layton, UT
Ken Noyce   Layton, UT
Honestly, this climb doesn't come close to living up to all the hype. Don't get me wrong, it is extremely high quality rock and it does have interesting movement, but there are enough other things that detract from the quality to make it so that I wouldn't want to get on it again. First off, the bolting on this route is absolutely horrible. I don't think that there was a single bolt in a location that made any sense. The biggest issue with the bolting was the bolts being just out of reach from the obvious clipping holds (and I mean just out of reach of someone who is 6 feet tall even with the draws hanging). On the second to last bolt (just past the diagonal runnel), you reach an obvious left hand clipping jug only to find the bolt two feet further to the left. With stone this good, there is absolutely no reason to mar it with bolts in bad locations. The rock will take a bomber bolt wherever you want to put it, so why would you bolt a route without taking the time to determine the best place for it. The route was also somewhat runout, on the second pitch this wasn't really an issue as the falls were safe, but the first pitch probably should have had another bolt to make it safer, and again, the bolts on the first pitch were in terrible locations. The other thing to note is that this route is extremely sandbagged. I've climbed a lot of 5.12b's, and I've also climbed a lot of 5.12c's, and I can't think of a single route that I've climbed at either of those grades that is harder than this route. In Summary, if you are a super strong climber who doesn't care about the sandbagging, and has no issue clipping off of really bad holds a couple of moves beyond the obvious good clipping jugs, then this will be a great route for you! Jan 16, 2018
I previously found it strange that ever time I go to lime kiln this route (the famous one) is empty while there is a line to climb total depravity and others in that section of the wall. The crowded routes are not even loaded on MP. Now I understand. The aesthetics are great but bolting and poor texture make this an old school tech fest. A pre-hung long sling or two can drop the difficulty by a letter. This route is good but with 50m routes on slightly overhanging rock near by I don't think I will repeat this when I am in the area. Jan 16, 2018
K Hill
Denver, CO
K Hill   Denver, CO
For the sake of internet arguments, I'd like to politely disagree with the comment by Ken about this route being sandbagged. I'm by no means a consistent 5.12 climber and I found this route to be very reasonable having only climbed a handful of 5.12a routes myself. Grades are subjective and everyone has strengths in different styles, so I don't wan't to push a specific letter grade on this route. I only make this comment perhaps to help someone not feel intimidated by this awesome route. Mar 18, 2018