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Routes in Book of Condolences

Book of Condolences S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Choss Fighter S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Choss Fire S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Sad Rooster S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Silencer S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
X S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Xcess S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Xtension S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Type: Sport, 95 ft
FA: Bill Boyle
Page Views: 481 total, 11/month
Shared By: Jeremy Steck on Mar 25, 2014
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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7 Opinions

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Located in a National Forest Fee Area Details

Description

An outstanding route that has a good mix of climbing and rock type. The start is the same for X and Xtension, sharing the first bolt. Continue up and left over some chossy rock to reach a stance to clip the next bolt. Above the 3rd bolt comes the first crux where you do some bouldery moves to gain the flake system. Follow the flake system as it diminishes to the next crux on crimps that put you on the left side of the X face. Climb to the first overhang and pull a possible redpoint crux. Continue up to the next roof, pull it on great jugs, get a stance and clip the chains. The rock character changes dramatically when you reach the overhangs, very unusual texture and formation for AF up there.

Location

Shares the start with X and Xtension. On the left edge of this area.

Protection

bolts, shuts.

Photos

bheller
SL UT
bheller   SL UT
The choss was dangerous! We ripped off an encyclopedia(umm...5 ipads stacked upon each other) sized block that would have landed right on the belay area...scary! It seems sane now. The bolts on the upper half are terrible... I truly think this route should be avoided until they are replaced with stainless. 12b power and 12b endurance on this one and one of the harder 12b's in the canyon. Apr 11, 2016
D.A. LeBaron
Grantsville,UT
  5.12b
D.A. LeBaron   Grantsville,UT
  5.12b
The first big roof has some dangerous choss at the key rest. The big under clings are quite loose. I will reinforce with glue, but for now, be careful. I have avoided this climb up until now because of its chossy appeal. After climbing it I have a different opinion. It had great movement. After dangers are minimized and rusty bolts are removed, this will get a lot more traffic. It's a great route. Mar 6, 2016
This is a nice route to work for breaking into the grade. First crux teaches you to hike your feet and lean into your hands. The second is techie and if you boulder goes quick. The third and fourth really are endurancey redpoint cruxes.

Warm up on those weird routes right after you cross the creek because the .11's at this crag are unpleasant. Mar 26, 2014