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Routes in Book of Condolences

Book of Condolences S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Choss Fighter S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Choss Fire S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Sad Rooster S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Silencer S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
X S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Xcess S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Xtension S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
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Type: Sport, 65 ft
FA: Boone Speed, Bill Boyle
Page Views: 1,526 total · 25/month
Shared By: grk10vq on Jul 10, 2013
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Access Issue: Located in a National Forest Fee Area Details

Description

Ridiculous stemming up a beautiful corner, if you lack technique, expect to get owned. Troublesome and involved, Book of Condolences requires precise movement up a hard, open dihedral. Smear, press, and edge your way up this technical route, and don't be surprised if you find yourself puckering...

Difficult from beginning to end, the crux of this line sits high, so save some juice for the final moves. Well-bolted and well-protected, equipping the draws here, won't be your biggest issue. Consider colder temps a requirement, the grease factor can be pretty high. Unarguable at it's grade, this is a good, true project for most mortals.

Location

Found in the middle of the BOC area, this line is the prominent corner set up on a small ledge.

Protection

Five or six draws to a two-bolt anchor.

Photos

bheller
SL UT
  5.12c
bheller   SL UT
  5.12c
Beautiful rock, but for me, not exactly enjoyable climbing. Technical, precise, painful, and powerful(up high)...don't expect this to ever be downgraded. This route packs as much climbing as other routes twice its length. 1.5 stars? Jul 11, 2013
Dave Budge
North Slope of the Wrangells
 
Dave Budge   North Slope of the Wrangells
 
1.5 stars? What a snob. Brilliant climbing, as fun as any route in the canyon. And more interesting than any other AF route of it's grade. Bheller would have liked it better if he didn't solo it in flip-flops after three PBRs. I guess it's hard to compare to his desperate granite fandangos. I'm giving it four stars just to right some wrongs. Jul 13, 2013
chris nance
  5.12b
chris nance  
  5.12b
One of my favorite routes in the canyon! Aug 18, 2014
Ben Ricketts
Salt Lake City, UT
 
Ben Ricketts   Salt Lake City, UT
 
This is a great route that requires much more technique than your average AF pitch. This is a great one for all those trad climbers that find themselves reluctantly dragged to AF. It climbs a whole lot like a hard, granite stemming corner without the pucker-fest of placing tiny gear. May 16, 2017

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