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Routes in Book of Condolences

Book of Condolences S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Choss Fighter S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Choss Fire S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Sad Rooster S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Silencer S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
X S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Xcess S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Xtension S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Type: Sport
FA: Boone Speed
Page Views: 1,642 total · 35/month
Shared By: Todd Green on Apr 3, 2014
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Located in a National Forest Fee Area Details

Description

Start with some easy scrambling (protected by a bolt) to a ledge from which you can clip the first two bolts. Work up into the dihedral and you'll quickly find the first crux. Pull a few more hard moves and you'll get a nice jug to gather yourself for the second crux on smaller crimps as you start to trend right to the final rest about halfway through the traverse. Get your heart rate down for the final exciting moves to the chains. As the guidebook puts it: "We're desperate, get used to it." - X lyric.

Bulletproof rock and not nearly as polished as some of the other more popular 13's in AF.

Location

See directions for getting to The Red Corners. The route starts in the left facing dihedral, pulls onto the arete and then traverses to the right to share anchors with The Book of Condolences.

Protection

10 bolts + chains

Photos

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