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Routes in The Gargoyle

7-10 Split T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Back Crack T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Carpet Munchkin S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Gargoyle, The S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a C1
Gothic Edifice S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Miller Lite S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Thunder Thighs S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Type: Trad, Sport, 100 ft
FA: Matt Delheimer
Page Views: 84 total, 2/month
Shared By: Lurker on Mar 24, 2014
Admins: Rick Shull, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

So named because it wasn't quite a strike. Follow bolts on a blocky arete to a stemming dihedral. Gear for the last 1/3 of the route after leaving the dihedral. Will be a nice moderate once it gets more traffic and cleans up.

Location

On the right side/below the huge Gargoyle roof. Starts off a large boulder adjacent to the wall.

Protection

8 bolts, gear to 3", rap anchors. Bring a #5 to protect the last 10' to the anchors, or run it out on easy ground.

Photos

Evan Wisheropp
  5.10b
Evan Wisheropp  
  5.10b
Great route, very enjoyable. The name makes sense for a multitude of reasons, especially as you're doing the splits in the dihedral. As for gear, (stop reading if you don't want to hear) I'd say the #5 is really important to have, at least at the very start of the large crack. Other than that, I placed a .5 and a nest of a few small nuts. I'd be curious what others use. Apr 30, 2017
Benjamin F
Crescent City, CA
Benjamin F   Crescent City, CA
I guess what I should've said is "looked for a bolt line in this area and couldn't find one"

if i'm envisioning correctly what's written in the description, then i think you bolted what I had been eyeing at my last visit.

can't wait to check this out. Apr 11, 2014
Lurker
Verdi, NV
 
Lurker   Verdi, NV  
 
Just put this route up on Sunday 03/23. Wonder what route you're thinking of? Maybe Vegan Tundra? 7-10 Split is super easy to find, it's just around the corner and left of Back Crack. Mar 28, 2014
Benjamin F
Crescent City, CA
Benjamin F   Crescent City, CA
Can you try to get a picture on this one soon, if you could please? Looked for it last time and couldn't find the first bolt. Mar 28, 2014