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Routes in The Gargoyle

7-10 Split T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Back Crack T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Carpet Munchkin S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Gargoyle, The S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a C1
Gothic Edifice S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Miller Lite S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Thunder Thighs S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: Evan Wisheropp
Page Views: 100 total, 16/month
Shared By: Evan Wisheropp on May 15, 2017
Admins: Rick Shull, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Originally intended as just an approach pitch to the massive 40’ Gargoyle roof, this route ended up being quite a quality climb in it’s own. A line of nine black bolts lead up the edifice to a balcony ledge at the foot of the Gargoyle. The 5.7 slab gradually steepens to an imposing headwall with eerie stemming up the façade. The holds appear to disappear at a vaulted ceiling, unless you look carefully. A series of spooky long reaches to hidden jugs will have you praying, and success will have the choir singing. At the ledge, retreat from the underbelly of the Gargoyle, leaving directionals for anyone top roping. Otherwise, take your chances on the imposing piece of stone above you that presumably may now overshadow your ambition to continue.

Location

Location: Line of black bolts below the massive 40’ roof.

Protection

Gear: 9 bolts, two bolt anchor with equalizing chain.

**The last bolt can be skipped on the lead, but needs to be clipped as a directional for top roping. Seriously, every climber must clip the last four bolts clipped as directionals or suffer rope damage if the climber falls on the crux without them clipped.**

Photos

Sierra Farquhar
Arcata, CA
  5.10a
Sierra Farquhar   Arcata, CA
  5.10a
Fun fun super awesomey fun! May 29, 2017
Still has some more cleaning to be done, but fun nonetheless. Should be clean in a week or two. May 18, 2017