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Routes in The Gargoyle

7-10 Split T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Back Crack T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Carpet Munchkin S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Gargoyle, The S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a C1
Gothic Edifice S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Miller Lite S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Thunder Thighs S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 78 total, 2/month
Shared By: Lurker on Mar 25, 2014
Admins: Rick Shull, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Hands and fingers in a flake/corner system. Move left about 2/3 of the way up (somewhat runout) to another corner system. Finish with some funky/fiddly gear. Think this route is called "Bat Crack" in the book.

Location

On the south side of the Gargoyle formation. The less-mossy of two adjacent corner systems.

Protection

Gear to 4", rap anchors.

Photos

Matthias Holladay
Shiprock, Navajolands
Matthias Holladay   Shiprock, Navajolands
Wow.
Glad you had fortunate circumstances for a relatively favorable outcome. :-) May 1, 2017
I discovered yesterday why Back Crack is a much better name than Bat Crack. 18' up the layback jug (and the 30 lb block it was attached to) broke, my piece blew the rock, and I decked flat on my back. Thank goodness we had a boulderer there and had borrowed a crash pad. Oh, "Back Crack," I get it now. After seeing the rope cut almost all the way through, I was a bit shaken to lead and ended up top roping it (already blew the onsight right?). It turns out now with the block gone, you can actually reach solid gear earlier than before. You're welcome?

Gear beta: Standard gear, nuts and gear to 4". Save a .5 for the upper dihedral and clip it plenty long. Certain small nuts kinda work above the .5 to back it up, but a nest with a #1 and #2 ball nut is bomber. May 1, 2017
Benjamin F
Crescent City, CA
  5.10d PG13
Benjamin F   Crescent City, CA
  5.10d PG13
Good point.
Now that I think about it, Gnar Gnar was much harder, just due to how sustained it is.
I tend to not put letters on grades, and use the +/- to indicate how sustained it is. But the letters are how it's done here, so I've been trying to use them.
I think you've convinced me. I'd much rather call Gnar Gnar 5.11a, and Back Crack 5.10d, when you compare them.
I'll change my proposed rating right now. Apr 11, 2014
Lurker
Verdi, NV
 
Lurker   Verdi, NV  
 
I felt that 5.10d was about right for this route. The upper section is more scary than hard, although I think the gear is actually pretty good. A bit easier than Gnar-Gnar (at least endurance-wise), which is probably more like 5.11a. Apr 7, 2014
Benjamin F
Crescent City, CA
  5.10d PG13
Benjamin F   Crescent City, CA
  5.10d PG13
Ok yeah I was confused about this too. Climbed this with Tom, and I was positive it was called "Back Crack" as well. I think the guidebook must have it wrong, as well as the grade. It was originally graded 11a, which I think is a fair assessment. If not, then 5.10++ Mar 28, 2014