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Routes in Vache noire

Type: Trad, Ice, 100 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 187 total · 4/month
Shared By: Padawan on Feb 24, 2014
Admins: Luc-514

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Location

5 meters left of 'Ferrata Direct'.
Gullylike start to birch tree then trends right after cedar.

Description

Low angle start on thinner ice.Short screws should do the job for first 5-6 meters then it is possible to put rock gear.A nut ranging from 10-15mm and/or the equivalent of a Camalot #2 will protect you to the cedar(crux)where ice thickness and quality could be less than satisfying for screws.Enjoy a butt rest against the tree then follow where thick.
Sweet and commiting climbing.
Highly recommended if 'on'.

Protection

Short to medium ice screws-rock pros(details above)-2 double shoulder length slings(in case you have to protect on birch and/or cedar.
Trees on top for rappelling.

Photos

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