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Routes in Vache noire

Type: Trad, Ice, 235 ft, 2 pitches, Grade II
FA: Normand Cadieux,Hubert Morin 1975
Page Views: 390 total, 8/month
Shared By: Padawan on Feb 5, 2014
Admins: Luc-514

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Description

First pitch can be of lesser quality ice or stiffer than the suggested WI4.Belay on rock protection or screws depending on ice formation.Then follow the crusty snow/ice ramp to the left.Second pitch is the candy.Go up the gully/diedral that can be thin or even shy of yellowish ice on certain years.If the second pitch in entirely filled with ice,a standard rack of screws will protect it.If dryer,bring a few shorties as well as a standard rack of cams/nuts.A Laurentian Classic!

Location

Find 'Le Centennaire' trail that is a few hundred feet north(just before the bridge)of parking with self registration.
Walk the trail up the mountain for about 10-15 minutes until you see an emergency evacuation trail on the left (white cross on a red sign with #1 written).If you look up the cliff,you will have a good visual of ramp and second pitch(steep gully/diedral) of 'La Noire'.
Walk this trail for 1 minute and look for an orange flag on your right side...that will indicate the final approach(15-20min)to the route.
If early in the season,chances are that you will be opening the trail(try following orange flags or instinctively make your way up to the base of the route.
If already walked,then just follow.

Protection

You will have to make the call from its base.

There are two trees equipped with rappel slings.
One at the top and one on the left halfway down.

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