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Routes in Right Teta
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1056 S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Abrazo de Oso S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a |
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Ants Line S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Antídoto S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Asymptomatic S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Ataxia S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a |
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Avísame S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Ayuda Celestial S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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BFF S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Bla, bla, bla S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Black Widow S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Blankipidia S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Bésame Mucho S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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City Boy S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Dale Dale S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Ear, The S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Flake City S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Fuck Destiny S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Fuck Pandora S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Head to Toe S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Homo Fatuus S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Knock-Out S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Ledge Approach Route S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Lento Gómez S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Lizard the Wizard S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Lockdown S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Mad World S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Mash Potato S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Mete Mano Mete Cuña S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Mi Burro Pepe S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Migraña S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Non-GMO S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Nose, The S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Pequeño Matador S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Peíto S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Pies de Pluma, Dedos de Acero S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Plandemic S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Push to Unlock S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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SCAD (State Crimes Against Democracy) S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Se Quedó el Sherpa S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Silent Music S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Supercali... S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Titanium Fetish S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Trifecta S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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Ultracrepidarian S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Vértigo S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Yellow Mellow S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Zika BS S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
| Type: | Sport, 60 ft (18 m), 4 pitches |
| GPS: | 18.09322, -66.22951 |
| FA: | R. Boscaeino & E. Jimenez |
| Page Views: | 1,941 total · 14/month |
| Shared By: | Steven Lucarelli on Feb 17, 2014 · Updates |
| Admins: | Heliodor Jalba |
Access Issue: Private property. Please be respectful! Keep the locked gate locked at all times. And scramble the code on the lock!
Details
Description
If you like stemming, then the first pitch of this is your route!
P1: 5.10a - Head up the dihedral, with gray rock on the right and rougher brown, lichen-covered rock on the left. If doing the second pitch, there's a second set of anchors near the top of P1. When you reach the first set of chains, look left: a bolt protects a delicate traverse leading to a second set of chains that makes leading P2 easier.
P2: 5.10b - Comfortable belay station. The second pitch heads up to the pair of chains visible in the mini-cave above.
P3: 5.10b - Hard moves out of the gate to easier climbing. The third pitch trends right as it goes up.
P4: 5.9 - From the belay station at the top of P3, look left. Scramble around the ledge, clipping a bolt on the way. There's another set of bolts to set a station to belay P4, which goes up the middle face to a pair of chains below the vegetation near the peak. If you try to belay from the P3 anchor, there will be significant rope drag.
Location
Look for the obvious corner system and the belay platform straight in front of you as you exit the approach trail.
There are name plates on the wall for each route. Use the left-to-right sorting of route names to cross-reference as you walk along at the crag.
Protection
P1 to top rope anchor: 7 bolts
P1: 10 bolts to two bolt anchor
P2: 7 bolts to two bolt chained anchor
P3: 9 bolts to two bolt chained anchor
P4: 10 bolts to two bolt chained anchor
Rappel details:
The belay for P4 is an extra spacious standing belay, no need for both climbers to reach the top of P4. Lower the leader and have the second climber top rope or lead to clean the gear. Lower the second climber and have them walk to the first anchor of P3, the second climber will anchor in and the belayer can walk towards the anchor while keeping the belay on to reach the anchor, rappel off that anchor into the 2 pitch route called Lento Gómez then rappel this route.
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