5.10a/b YDS 6a+ French 19 Ewbanks VI+ UIAA 19 ZA E2 5b British
Avg: 3.1 from 8 votes
|Type:||Sport, 340 ft (103 m), 5 pitches|
|Page Views:||415 total · 22/month|
|Shared By:||brian kish on Nov 22, 2021|
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This route is a combination of multiple routes that will get you generally to the top. It is cool because it picks and chooses the pitches of harder routes to keep everything below 5.10b.
P1: 6 bolts, 50ft, 5.9. Climb the first 6-7 bolts of Knock Out. Then traverse left to the large ledge. Belay from there.
P2: 12 bolts, 100 ft, 5.10a. Climb BFF. You will pass a set of top rope anchors about six bolts up. (You can belay from here, but it will add a pitch) You then traverse up and to the right. You will pass a chained quickdraw on the traverse. This is used as a redirect when on rappel.
P3: 10 bolts, 60ft, 5.10b. This is the crux pitch. It is the first pitch of Non-GMO. This pitch was a good bit harder than all the others. You can belay from the top of P2 anchors, or transfer the belay to other anchors on climbers left. Fairly overhung, sustained series of moves to make it through the crux, which is the top third of the pitch.
P4: 7 bolts, 60ft, 5.9. Climb the second pitch of Non-GMO. Pretty chill climbing.
P5: 11 bolts, 70 ft, 5.9. This switches over back to the last pitch of Knock Out.
Descent: Rap the route. You will have to traverse a ledge to climbers right to get the rap at the top of P2. If you have two ropes, rapping from the top of P2 lets you do a badass hanging rappel all the way to the ground. If not, start the rap at the top of P2, then traverse climbers left to the chained carabiner. Use that to redirect your rap to the big ledge at the start of P2.
This route starts all the way on the lefts side of the main wall on the East Peak. The start of it is on 'Knock Out'. 60m rope will do fine.