Type: Sport, 340 ft (103 m), 5 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 415 total · 22/month
Shared By: brian kish on Nov 22, 2021
Admins: Heliodor Jalba

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Private property. Please be respectful! Keep the locked gate locked at all times. And scramble the code on the lock! Details

Description

This route is a combination of multiple routes that will get you generally to the top. It is cool because it picks and chooses the pitches of harder routes to keep everything below 5.10b.

P1: 6 bolts, 50ft, 5.9.  Climb the first 6-7 bolts of Knock Out. Then traverse left to the large ledge. Belay from there.  

P2: 12 bolts, 100 ft, 5.10a.  Climb BFF. You will pass a set of top rope anchors about six bolts up. (You can belay from here, but it will add a pitch) You then traverse up and to the right. You will pass a chained quickdraw on the traverse. This is used as a redirect when on rappel.  

P3: 10 bolts, 60ft, 5.10b.  This is the crux pitch. It is the first pitch of Non-GMO. This pitch was a good bit harder than all the others. You can belay from the top of P2 anchors, or transfer the belay to other anchors on climbers left. Fairly overhung, sustained series of moves to make it through the crux, which is the top third of the pitch.

P4: 7 bolts, 60ft, 5.9.  Climb the second pitch of Non-GMO. Pretty chill climbing.

P5: 11 bolts, 70 ft, 5.9.  This switches over back to the last pitch of Knock Out.

Descent: Rap the route. You will have to traverse a ledge to climbers right to get the rap at the top of P2. If you have two ropes, rapping from the top of P2 lets you do a badass hanging rappel all the way to the ground. If not, start the rap at the top of P2, then traverse climbers left to the chained carabiner. Use that to redirect your rap to the big ledge at the start of P2.

Location

This route starts all the way on the lefts side of the main wall on the East Peak.  The start of it is on 'Knock Out'.  60m rope will do fine.

Protection

The longest pitch(#2) has 12 bolts. Bring 14+ draws

Photos