Type: Boulder, 10 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 454 total · 6/month
Shared By: skinny legs and all on Feb 7, 2014
Admins: Justin Johnsen, Kyle Stapp, SCPC

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Private Property Climb Only When Open to Climbing Details

Description

Fisticuffs is unique to Governor Stables, and diabase rock in general, in that it is a parallel hand and fist jam crack, and on a horizontal roof to boot! If you like these kind of challenges then you will not be disappointed.

This roof crack is down low in a sort of cave opposite of the tall and sweeping face which contains the V6 dyno problem Cave Wave. Look down and underneath the roof to locate the crack. It is easy to miss if you are not looking for it.

Burrow as far back as you can in to the beginning of the roof crack and start jamming. After a couple of moves turn the lip to vertical territory. Once standing on the vertical face, you may step off, of continue upwards on grungy but easy rock to a top out. Taping may be prudent as the insides of the crack are quite gritty, but taping is not a deal breaker. The crack is hand as well as fist sized with good, solid jams for hands and feet.

Location

Fisticuffs is on the right side of the alcove that is downhill from the Herr Brothers Arete problems. Looming over you will be a jutting roof that is led with traditional protection or toproped. To the left of the little cave is the tall and sweeping Cave Wave face with a poor landing. The problem Fisticuffs faces away from the Stables entrance, if that helps.

Protection

One or two pads, no spotter. The crack is no more than four or five feet off of the ground. It is very safe and the jams are secure.

Photos