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Routes in Scary Canyon

Allison Winderland S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Boise Gunfighter S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Doctor Hemlock S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Full Bred S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Men Who Pause S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Public Service S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Simple Physics S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: Brad Heller, Matt Fischer 2005
Page Views: 369 total, 8/month
Shared By: bheller on Jan 28, 2014
Admins: WAGbag, Mike Engle

You & This Route


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Seasonal Raptor Closures. Details

Are you callin' me a liar?

One of Boise's best- naw definitely the best route at the grade. The crux comes down low (2nd bolt?) with a left hand sloper move coming around a little roof. Up higher past some fingery moves, the route joins a right facing corner system created by an eerie hanging basalt column. Climb through this section carefully and be sure your belayer is well out of the crash zone should this column ever cut loose while the route is being climbed! It never gave us any indication that it was loose, but its fall could be disastrous. Just look around at the base to see how many similar columns have cratered over time. Next climb right a bit and encounter the awesome section of steep en-tabulated basalt. A touch of the jail-house in Boise. Athletic and pumping moves through this section will keep you smiling! Exit the en-tabulated section climbing left,and finish on some pocketed angular basalt to clip the chains!

Location

Following the trail up the Scary Canyon Drainage will deposit you left of the huge tiered overhanging amphitheater. You will arrive at the cliff face somewhere near the bolted open corner Beef Curtain- if I remember correctly. To find Boise Gunfighter you must continue scrambling right a ways and across the lowest point of the drainage, and continue up slope. Boise Gunfighter has Madrock hangers- this will help identify it. It starts right of Mind Killer and climbs the broken overhangs. Lower from the chains at the top of the wall.

Protection

Draws only...8 bolts? Bolted anchor.

Photos

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bheller
SL UT
 
bheller   SL UT
 
Again, a great route! Scary canyon is ideal on sunny, calm winter days. When Matt and I bolted this line, the washer-stack anchor had already been installed by an unknown party. It is listed as a project in the 2003 Boise Climbs guidebook. Jan 28, 2014