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Routes in Scary Canyon

Allison Winderland S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Boise Gunfighter S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Doctor Hemlock S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Full Bred S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Men Who Pause S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Public Service S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Simple Physics S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: Tedd Thompson & Pokey Amory, 1980s
Page Views: 251 total, 12/month
Shared By: R.Walters on Apr 1, 2016
Admins: WAGbag, Mike Engle

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Seasonal Raptor Closures. Details

Description

Awesome line in Scary Canyon established by Tedd Thompson and Pokey Amory. The lower half presents typical Black Cliffs tricky climbing on polished basalt and the technical crux of the route with slightly sporty bolt spacing (a stick is clip useful for the start). Milk an okay rest below the headwall and enjoy the spectacular finish on positive steep edges and pockets. This is one of the better sport routes in the canyon.

Location

Just right of the 'Married Man' crack. Look for the tan-colored high first bolt.

Protection

7 bolts, chains.

The upper bolts were replaced and placements re-engineered by Brad Heller a while back.
The lower bolts and anchors were replaced by the ASCA in 2016.

Photos

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bheller
SL UT
  5.11d
bheller   SL UT
  5.11d
Indeed I did re-engineer this routes finish circa 2004. I believed at the time that it was in the best interest of the small group of climbers who cared, and my actions were encouraged by my peers at the time. IMO it made for a much better route- certainly one of the few gems on the Boise basalt. We always called it 11d with the direct finish. I think it's probably closer to 55' tall. It wasn't until more than a decade later that Tedd caught me off-gaurd when he uploaded on me with his anger that I had re-engineered his route. Funny thing is I never imagined he would care, and him being "unavailable" at the time I admit I never attempted to contact him. Sincere apologies publiclly to Tedd! You're welcome everyone else;) Apr 1, 2016
R.Walters  
 
Epeldi's guide lists this one as 11b. IMO, it's a letter harder - hopefully others can chime in. Either way, one of the best at the relative grade! Apr 1, 2016