Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: Lee Terveen
Page Views: 513 total · 9/month
Shared By: BBQ on Jan 26, 2014
Admins: Andrew Gram, Peter Gram, Greg Parker, Mike Madsen, Mark Rafferty

You & This Route

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This Makes 500 Described Routes For Spearfish Canyon!

This route is rated 5.10b. Apparently it's a classic...and I have no idea why. Maybe its the 5th class scramble you need to embark on before you even rope up for the climb. Maybe it's the wild opening moves that give you an instant sensation of exposure. Maybe its the bullet proof rock that contains a plethora of perfect pockets of all sizes along with every type of imaginable hold that you can sink your hands, feet and teeth into. Maybe its the fact that it has hella fun moves and multiple cruxes. Maybe its the fact that its never been on Mountain Project before and no one has ever bombed it. Maybe its the fact that so many of us have struggled to send and found ourselves challenged to the point of swearing and smiling our asses off during the process. Maybe its the fact that this climb's remote location may help it avoid the greased up fate of Yippie. This is probably the best route of its grade and you will more than likely not have to wait in line to get on it. What is a classic climb anyway? I can't claim to know all the criteria needed for a route to receive such an honor. All I know is that season after season this climb still gives me the same heady rush I felt after the first time I climbed it. Aces and eights all the way. A must do! Classic!


Right hand most route.


bring a dozen quick draws. Stick clip the first bolt and never sit with your back to the door.


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