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Routes in Section 1

Ben's Done Been (AKA Bat Flake) S,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Bob Left TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Bob Right S,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Bob's Gone Batty S 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Far Left Corner TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Hang Time TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Leaky Roof S,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
One Step TR 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Pork Chop TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Short Stack TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Too Short S,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Unknown S,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: TR, 35 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 533 total, 11/month
Shared By: Mike Nevko on Jan 19, 2014
Admins: Ryan Williams, Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry

You & This Route


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Description

Follow a gritty line, from directly below a ominous downward flake. Above the flake, face a cryptic crux and then the route is done.

Location

Far Left side, Directly to the left of the overhang block with a bore hole drilled through it.

Protection

2 Bolt anchor
Johnny O
Wilkesboro, NC
  5.10-
Johnny O   Wilkesboro, NC
  5.10-
This is now a sport route. Some may be reluctant due to the high first bolt but when I lead it, that bolt had not even been installed yet (belayer needed to leave and there wasn't time to install it). There are three bolts total. The rock leading to the first bolt is fairly easy so it shouldn't be a problem. Keep in mind, the moves onto the down-turned flake do require some smearing. The second bolt will protect the moves well but if you are not comfortable with smearing, this route may not be the best choice. There is a nice side pull on the right to help you move up onto the flake. Underneath the flake, on the left side, is a little step that will help you get enough height to make the move smoothly. Once on the flake, there is a hidden pocket up and slightly left. It will be hard to reach for shorter people. There is a nice crimp on the right and several small edges directly above. Step up a little more on sloped holds and reach up under the block that is just left of the crack above your head for another excellent hidden hold. This will make it easier to clip the third bolt. From there, you have several options, use the crack or climb directly above the block. The footholds are thin until you surmount the block. Any early history is unknown. Myself and Travis Mabe first climbed it on top-rope and then trad back in 2010. It was a bit easier then as the large step was still in place. We removed the step in either late 2012 or early 2013. It was Aug. 6th, 2016 when I bolted it and lead it for the first time in its current state, without the step. Most of the left wall was in terrible condition early on and required the removal of a large amount of loose rock and debris. While nowhere near perfect, there turned out to be a few decent climbs afterwards. Dirt and rock still continues to be cleaned from the ledges. Most of it is gone so these routes should clean up nicely in the future.

Quick note about grade - 5.9+/5.10- range. It was better than 90 degrees and the route still dirty from cleaning off the ledge so it may be more in the 5.9/5.9+ range. Aug 19, 2016