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Routes in Pedra do Bau

Teto do Baú T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A1 R
Transbaú T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
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Type: Trad, Aid, 200 ft, 2 pitches, Grade III
FA: unknown
Page Views: 255 total · 4/month
Shared By: Cissa Carvalho on Jan 14, 2014
Admins: Tony Yeary, Raiden

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Description

"Teto do Baú" (Baú's Roof) is a classic aid line in the Mantiqueira range, and a super aerial in 90% of its two pitches.

Grade is A1 5c french/5.9 YDS line that starts at a small plateau, following the south side tip of Pedra do Baú. After about 40 "Ps" (home made bolts very commom in Brazil shaped as a P, I'll refer to them here as bolts to make reading easier), you reach the first anchor station. From there to the top lies the A1 grade, for you need to climb a bit in order to reach two other bolts quite apart from each other and follow on with aiding.

After this second bolt, the route turns positive and it's a 3rd class climb to the summit.

Location

Pedra do Baú is filled with trad routes, bolted, mixed and clean, of a large range of grades, so there are several options to get to the base of the Teto route itself. You can join routes on each other on either face, it all depends on your experience, weather conditions and time.
The route start is very obvious, at the plateau where several of these routes end.

Protection

About 40 bolts, most of them old and shady. Two anchor stations, double bolted, in good condition.

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