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Routes in Gorilla Cliffs

Glass Slipper S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Gorilla S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Grayling S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Just Left of Paradise S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Nintendo S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Present, The S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
This Side of Paradise S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Winter Dance S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Type: Sport, 25 ft
FA: Boone Speed, 1995
Page Views: 1,839 total, 39/month
Shared By: Monomaniac on Jan 7, 2014
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Description

This notorious line has such perfect stone and continuous movement that it's managed to attain classic status despite its diminutive stature. Originally prepared by Mike Call (presuming a more manageable 5.13- grade), he graciously gifted the line to legendary crimp master Boone Speed (hence the name). Established in 1995, this line was one of the earlier 5.14s in America, and was named one of the five best miniature sport routes in America in Matt Samet's "Get Shorty" article for Climbing Magazine. The bouldering difficulty has been estimated to be around V11, and in fact it has been "bouldered" at least twice, though ropes were used to work the line in both cases.

That said, this wall of pockets and tiny edges is more a test of high intensity Power Endurance than pure power, with twelve-or-so continuos moves and barely an opportunity to clip, let alone shake or chalk. None of the moves are terribly heinous by themselves, but from the ground to the slab every move is hard. The climbing is characterized by long lock-offs and precision stabs between tiny edges and 2 or 3 finger pockets. The entire line could be considered one long crux, but there is a more desperate section passing the first bolt and another leading to the third bolt.

Location

The beautiful, short, leaning wall of gray edges and pockets in the center of the cliffline. You can't miss it.

Protection

3 bolts (plus directional) to 2BA. Expect some exciting falls and spicey clips.

Photos

slcpunk  
There used to be a big tree in the landing, did it get cut down? Jan 8, 2014