Type: Sport, 25 ft
FA: Boone Speed, 1995
Page Views: 2,663 total · 37/month
Shared By: Monomaniac on Jan 7, 2014
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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This notorious line has such perfect stone and continuous movement that it's managed to attain classic status despite its diminutive stature. Originally prepared by Mike Call (presuming a more manageable 5.13- grade), he graciously gifted the line to legendary crimp master Boone Speed (hence the name). Established in 1995, this line was one of the earlier 5.14s in America, and was named one of the five best miniature sport routes in America in Matt Samet's "Get Shorty" article for Climbing Magazine. The bouldering difficulty has been estimated to be around V11, and in fact it has been "bouldered" at least twice, though ropes were used to work the line in both cases.

That said, this wall of pockets and tiny edges is more a test of high intensity Power Endurance than pure power, with twelve-or-so continuos moves and barely an opportunity to clip, let alone shake or chalk. None of the moves are terribly heinous by themselves, but from the ground to the slab every move is hard. The climbing is characterized by long lock-offs and precision stabs between tiny edges and 2 or 3 finger pockets. The entire line could be considered one long crux, but there is a more desperate section passing the first bolt and another leading to the third bolt.


The beautiful, short, leaning wall of gray edges and pockets in the center of the cliffline. You can't miss it.


3 bolts (plus directional) to 2BA. Expect some exciting falls and spicey clips.