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Routes in New Wall (AKA Kurt Russell Block)

Big trouble in little China S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Captain Ron S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Don't need no names S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Johnny Five S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Jugs S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Just Sevens and Eights S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Overboard S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Unknown 2 S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Unknown 4 S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
fat boy S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
unknown 1 S 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
unknown 6 S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
unkown 8 S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Type: Sport, 30 ft
FA: Matthew Nunes
Page Views: 1,073 total, 21/month
Shared By: Mark Nunes on Nov 3, 2013
Admins: saxfiend, Brad "Stonyman" Killough

You & This Route


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Description

It was a beautiful, fall morning, but pretty much the most crowded day at Sand Rock I've ever experienced. We ran away from Holiday Block, trying to escape the crowds, which had already worked their way down to the Sun Wall.

So off we went to the New Wall.

The only person we ran into was Johnny Arms, setting up a new route at the farthest end of the second section of the New Wall. His drill battery had just died, but not before he had set three bolts and a single shut at the top. My son and I were just finishing up on Unknown 6 when Johnny asked if my son wanted the first climb.

"I was going to call it Jugs, 'cause that's all it is," he said.

It's a fun little climb, with some enormous holds all the way up. Johnny thought it might be a soft 9, at best; the last move past the 3rd bolt probably is 9-ish, but other than that, this route is in line with the other 8's on the New Wall.

Location

At the far end of the new wall, to the right of Unknown 8.

Protection

Three bolts and a single open shut at the top. This is a new route (put up on 11/2/13) so be careful what you're pull on.

Photos

Pretty pumpy 5.8 for sure, and like others said some holds off route look shady Apr 10, 2014
Nathan Bratzler
Starkville, Mississippi
  5.9-
Nathan Bratzler   Starkville, Mississippi
  5.9-
Be careful of the very sharp holds in the beginning. Also check your feet cause the wall will break off under your feet in some places. Feb 25, 2014
Geissler Golding  
  5.9-
Try to stay in-line w/ the bolts! There is a definite possibility of breaking off a piece as we found out this past weekend! Thankfully it was way right so the route is intact. I think the last move can be a little stout! Nov 11, 2013