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Routes in New Wall (AKA Kurt Russell Block)

Big trouble in little China S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Captain Ron S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Don't need no names S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Johnny Five S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Jugs S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Just Sevens and Eights S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Overboard S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Unknown 2 S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Unknown 4 S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
fat boy S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
unknown 1 S 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
unknown 6 S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
unkown 8 S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Elevation: 1,442 ft
GPS: 34.181, -85.813 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 13,808 total · 231/month
Shared By: Scott Cox on Feb 20, 2013
Admins: saxfiend, Brad "Stonyman" Killough


Good winter area, out of the wind and in the sun most of the day, down below the Turtle Rock area. Short wall (~35') with about a dozen routes recently developed by Johnny Arms. Route names mostly undetermined at present.

NOTE: Many of the routes have only one open shut for an anchor, so if you plan on top-roping, it's a good idea to bring necessary gear (cams, hexes, etc.) to set up a redundant anchor instead of toproping off only one shut.

Getting There

Take the trail to the end of the Sun Wall, past Misty and Knob Wall. Look for a fairly obvious trail down to the right; take this trail down about 50 yards to the New Wall (a right fork in this trail leads to the Hole).

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Classic Climbing Routes at New Wall (AKA Kurt Russell Block)

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
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A good warm up wall, especially on colder days. It would be a good idea to bushwhack up the trail to the right of the wall and assess the pro at the top before ascending. It was sketchy and loose when I went in August of 2017. 4 days ago
Jethro Bodine-Clampett   Hixson, Tn
Been climbing on those little lower walls for decades, always fun. Oct 17, 2017
Katie Giebler
Tampa, Florida
Katie Giebler   Tampa, Florida
This was the perfect place to teach new lead climbers because there were plenty of easier routes to try in one place.
However, I wasn't a big fan of the one bolt on the top... Mar 1, 2017
Nathan Devan
Nathan Devan   Alabama
Could anyone add to the directions? The place is confusing, not sure how to get to the new wall.
Follow the trail by Sun Wall, pass Misty, pass Knob wall, soon turn right downhill then a left shortly after. Nov 3, 2016
Jeff Mekolites   ATL GA
So, having climbed here a couple of times I thought I would add some thoughts on the area. Pretty cool, although very short, climbing with closely spaced bolts. A good place to do a bunch of routes quick. Seems like its getting a good about of traffic. But the major problem with this is the precedence it will set for newer climbers. The single open shut at the top of each routes probably the worst way to put an anchor at the top of a climbing routes. Both times there, I have seen people TR-ing off a single open shut. Since when did this become okay? With that set up you should probably just lead everything and that way you have a bolt clipped for back up after you finish the route and are being lowered. Also, I would guess that some/most of the protection bolts aren't stainless. This place needs to be brought up to the current accepted climbing standards in terms of anchors and protection bolts. Apr 24, 2016
The routes are a little out of order here. I'll delete this comment once we get them resorted. For the time being, though, going Left to Right, the routes are:

Unknown #1
Unknown #2
Captain Ron
Unknown #4
Big Trouble in Little China
Unknown #6
Fat Boy
Unknown #8
Jugs May 23, 2014
There is a route not listed here which was added somewhat recently by Johnny. It's the first line on the second block. It's unnamed and goes at 10+/11a-ish. Also I don't know where the name "Kurt Russell" for this wall comes from - I do know it's referred to as the "New" wall... Nov 11, 2013
This area is called "The New Wall" aka "Kurt Russell Block" Mar 28, 2013

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