Elevation: 1,442 ft
GPS: 34.181, -85.813 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 19,729 total · 270/month
Shared By: Scott Cox on Feb 20, 2013 with updates from Nathan Devan
Admins: saxfiend, Brad "Stonyman" Killough

Description

Good winter area, out of the wind and in the sun most of the day, down below the Turtle Rock area. Short wall (~35') with about a dozen routes recently developed by Johnny Arms. Route names mostly undetermined at present.

NOTE: Many of the routes have only one open shut for an anchor, so if you plan on top-roping, it's a good idea to bring necessary gear (cams, hexes, etc.) to set up a redundant anchor instead of toproping off only one shut.

Getting There

Take the trail to the end of the Sun Wall, past Misty and Knob Wall. Look for a fairly obvious trail down to the right; take this trail down about 50 yards to the New Wall (a right fork in this trail leads to the Hole).

15 Total Climbs

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Location: New Wall (AKA Kurt Russell Block) Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at New Wall (AKA Kurt Russell Block)

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 30
fat boy
Sport
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 53
Captain Ron
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 37
Unknown 4
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 23
unknown 6
Sport
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 33
Unknown 2
Sport
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
 6
Johnny Five
Sport
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 20
unkown 8
Sport
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 24
Overboard
Sport
5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 21
Groundhog
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
fat boy
 30
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
Captain Ron
 53
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
Unknown 4
 37
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
unknown 6
 23
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Unknown 2
 33
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Johnny Five
 6
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b Sport
unkown 8
 20
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Overboard
 24
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Groundhog
 21
5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
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This area is called "The New Wall" aka "Kurt Russell Block" Mar 28, 2013
There is a route not listed here which was added somewhat recently by Johnny. It's the first line on the second block. It's unnamed and goes at 10+/11a-ish. Also I don't know where the name "Kurt Russell" for this wall comes from - I do know it's referred to as the "New" wall... Nov 11, 2013
Jeff Mekolites   ATL GA
So, having climbed here a couple of times I thought I would add some thoughts on the area. Pretty cool, although very short, climbing with closely spaced bolts. A good place to do a bunch of routes quick. Seems like its getting a good about of traffic. But the major problem with this is the precedence it will set for newer climbers. The single open shut at the top of each routes probably the worst way to put an anchor at the top of a climbing routes. Both times there, I have seen people TR-ing off a single open shut. Since when did this become okay? With that set up you should probably just lead everything and that way you have a bolt clipped for back up after you finish the route and are being lowered. Also, I would guess that some/most of the protection bolts aren't stainless. This place needs to be brought up to the current accepted climbing standards in terms of anchors and protection bolts. Apr 24, 2016
Katie Giebler
Tampa, Florida
Katie Giebler   Tampa, Florida
This was the perfect place to teach new lead climbers because there were plenty of easier routes to try in one place.
However, I wasn't a big fan of the one bolt on the top... Mar 1, 2017
Jethro Bodine-Clampett   Hixson, Tn
Been climbing on those little lower walls for decades, always fun. Oct 17, 2017
A good warm up wall, especially on colder days. It would be a good idea to bushwhack up the trail to the right of the wall and assess the pro at the top before ascending. It was sketchy and loose when I went in August of 2017. Jan 18, 2018