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Jugs

5.9-, Sport, 30 ft (9 m),  Avg: 2 from 46 votes
FA: Matthew Nunes
Alabama > Sand Rock > New Wall (AKA Kurt Ru…

Description

It was a beautiful, fall morning, but pretty much the most crowded day at Sand Rock I've ever experienced. We ran away from Holiday Block, trying to escape the crowds, which had already worked their way down to the Sun Wall.

So off we went to the New Wall.

The only person we ran into was Johnny Arms, setting up a new route at the farthest end of the second section of the New Wall. His drill battery had just died, but not before he had set three bolts and a single shut at the top. My son and I were just finishing up on Unknown 6 when Johnny asked if my son wanted the first climb.

"I was going to call it Jugs, 'cause that's all it is," he said.

It's a fun little climb, with some enormous holds all the way up. Johnny thought it might be a soft 9, at best; the last move past the 3rd bolt probably is 9-ish, but other than that, this route is in line with the other 8's on the New Wall.

Location

At the far end of the new wall, to the right of Unknown 8.

Protection

Three bolts and a single open shut at the top. This is a new route (put up on 11/2/13) so be careful what you're pull on.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

One of Johnny Arms's latest contribution to the Kurt Russell Block.
[Hide Photo] One of Johnny Arms's latest contribution to the Kurt Russell Block.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

[Hide Comment] Try to stay in-line w/ the bolts! There is a definite possibility of breaking off a piece as we found out this past weekend! Thankfully it was way right so the route is intact. I think the last move can be a little stout! Nov 11, 2013
Nathan Bratzler
Starkville, Mississippi
  5.9-
[Hide Comment] Be careful of the very sharp holds in the beginning. Also check your feet cause the wall will break off under your feet in some places. Feb 25, 2014
[Hide Comment] Pretty pumpy 5.8 for sure, and like others said some holds off route look shady Apr 10, 2014
Colton Samblis
Gautier, MS
 
[Hide Comment] I got stung by a bee (or maybe it was a wasp) on this route and still got the send! Jan 14, 2020