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Routes in Drip Buttress

Apathy T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Melanoma T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Standard Route T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
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Type: Trad, 500 ft, 5 pitches, Grade II
FA: Pete Herbine and Joe Griffin
Page Views: 2,112 total · 37/month
Shared By: Claudine Tobalske on Oct 23, 2013
Admins: grk10vq

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14 Opinions

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Description

The route starts in a corner system near a small pine atop slabs. We followed "Rock Climbing Montana" and did it in 5 pitches.
Pitch 1 (5.9+, 80'): Follow corner system through bulge with two fixed pieces, to small dead tree on comfortable belay ledge with equalized fixed pieces, slings and rap ring.
Pitch 2 (5.9, 100'): Continue up corner system, the first half is a little sketchy/delicate with marginal gear; pull fun moves above fixed piece (equalized pin and slung block) and continue climbing to small platform in an alcove with webbing and rap ring.
Pitch 3 (5.9, 100'): Move left over roof, climb in corner system moving to the south face of the pillar to a comfortable belay ledge to the left of white roof; there's webbing slung around a rock.
Pitch 4 (5.8, 120'): Climb left and into chimney, to corner and back into chimney; build anchor before final corner crack. Watch for lose rock on this last part.
Pitch 5 (5.8, 50'): A few moves with good hand jams into a corner crack will bring you to the top; belay from tree or slung rock.
The route can be done in 4, or even 3 pitches. I would suggest:
P1 (5.9+, about 120') Go past first nest of belay slings, continue up slabby ramp and belay at fixed piece (pin and slung rock);
P2 (5.9, about 120') Go to top of original P3
P3 to the top, save a #1-#2 Camalot for last 30' of crack. Rope drag may be an issue so make sure to properly extend your draws.

Location

To come down, walk across boulder field towards gully between Drip and Prow; reaching the gully requires crossing some class 3/4 slabs so be careful if wet/icy. It took us one hour to reach the bottom of the gully, then one additional hour to get back to the car.

Protection

Standard rack with small gear and double #3 cams, possibly a #4 (we did without), small nuts useful; maybe a few more doubles if planning to do it in 3 pitches. If doing it in 5 pitches, the first 3 belay stations have webbing and rap rings.

Photos

IJMayer
Bellingham, WA
 
IJMayer   Bellingham, WA
 
This route was SUPER FUN!, but not as straightforward, or as solid as Shoshone S Face.
1st, the corner moves above the 1st fixed anchor. The crack is not harder than 5.9, but it's not straightforward for gear or climbing.
2nd, a broken corner about 60 feet above the described p2 anchor. The broken corner starts with a clean crack, but it quickly peters out into choss.
3rd, a lot of loose rock on the chimney. Think about rockfall when placing that belay.
4th, the descent was intimidating. We are inexperienced and roped up and we were fine. May 15, 2014
ddriver
SLC
 
ddriver   SLC
 
Fun route, survivable on a 95 degree day. We belayed as in the description given here, except for linking the final two pitches. The first belay tree is no more. Agree with going left to start the third rather than wandering right per the Falcon guide. I thought the chimney portion was really clean and some of the best climbing on the route. Aug 5, 2014
Kohnstamm  
 
Didn't think very highly of the route. In our opinion, the third pitch was the crux, the moves above the fixed pins in particular. We linked the last two pitches because a belay in the top of the chimney didn't seem great, but we had a double rack so this long pitch worked. Walk off is very straight forward and quick. Apr 19, 2015
David Steele
  5.9+
David Steele  
  5.9+
Fun, occasionally loose climbing. We did it in three pitches, and rapped down (with two 60m, two double raps and a single go fine).

We took doubles to .3 in cams, but it's overkill. I'd carry doubles to .5, two sets of small nuts, and C3s. The #4 was nice, at least twice.

Rapping off the top proved a little wild--we didn't find anything great in line with the route for a rap anchor, so we used the massive tree 30-40ft left of the top. It makes for a hanging rappel for nearly 200ft, and then the first person has to run and swing across the face to get to the next rap anchor at the top of the pillar. Nothing particularly dangerous, but spinning in the air while hanging over the whole valley is quite an adventure.

If doing it in three pitches, avoid fixed pin/slung block anchor suggested for the top of combined P1. The block is quite loose, the ledge small, and additional solid pro very sparse. Climb past it for twenty feet or so to the end of P2 as suggested in the five pitch version. Aug 18, 2016

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