| Type: | Trad, 500 ft (152 m), 5 pitches, Grade II |
| GPS: | 46.27759, -114.35697 |
| FA: | Pete Herbine and Joe Griffin |
| Page Views: | 4,697 total · 31/month |
| Shared By: | Claudine Tobalske on Oct 23, 2013 |
| Admins: | GRK, Zach Wahrer |
Description
The route starts in a corner system near a small pine atop slabs. We followed "Rock Climbing Montana" and did it in 5 pitches.
Pitch 1 (5.9+, 80'): Follow corner system through bulge with two fixed pieces, to small dead tree on comfortable belay ledge with equalized fixed pieces, slings and rap ring.
Pitch 2 (5.9, 100'): Continue up corner system, the first half is a little sketchy/delicate with marginal gear; pull fun moves above fixed piece (equalized pin and slung block) and continue climbing to small platform in an alcove with webbing and rap ring.
Pitch 3 (5.9, 100'): Move left over roof, climb in corner system moving to the south face of the pillar to a comfortable belay ledge to the left of white roof; there's webbing slung around a rock.
Pitch 4 (5.8, 120'): Climb left and into chimney, to corner and back into chimney; build anchor before final corner crack. Watch for lose rock on this last part.
Pitch 5 (5.8, 50'): A few moves with good hand jams into a corner crack will bring you to the top; belay from tree or slung rock.
The route can be done in 4, or even 3 pitches. I would suggest:
P1 (5.9+, about 120') Go past first nest of belay slings, continue up slabby ramp and belay at fixed piece (pin and slung rock);
P2 (5.9, about 120') Go to top of original P3
P3 to the top, save a #1-#2 Camalot for last 30' of crack. Rope drag may be an issue so make sure to properly extend your draws.



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