Type: Trad, 90 ft, Grade II
FA: Mackenzie Moore
Page Views: 141 total · 22/month
Shared By: Mackenzie Moore on Oct 12, 2018
Admins: grk10vq, Zach Wahrer

You & This Route


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Description

The final pitch to Melanoma. Bouldery, steep and airy. I thought I should give it its own route description due to the difficulty compared to the previous pitches of Melanoma. The beginning protects well with a green C3 off the belay, then a number 2 C4, and a purple C3 a bit higher underneath the roof before the first bolt. This last pitch consists of a boulder problem on the vertical, which then flows into steep juggy climbing for 5 more bolts. The top eases quite a bit and passes through a section of suspect blocks by the small pine tree (just climb gingerly). There is a two bolt anchor to lower off of on the slab next to the right facing blocky corner. You can lower off from here back to the belay ledge, or continue another 50 feet to the summit ledge of the Drip Buttress. Be aware, this pitch is quite steep so it can be be a pain to swing back to the belay ledge. Either clip into draws or have a tag line to pull back into the belay.

Location

From the top of the 3rd pitch of Melanoma, look up to see a bolted overhang.

From the top of the 3rd pitch belay ledge, you can do a single rope rap with a 70m rope down to some slabs where you can down climb the rest of the way.

Protection

8 bolts and green C3, #2 C4, purple C3

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