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Routes in Paradise

Agent Orange S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Astro Projection S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Broken Finger T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Direct Drive S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Eye Brow T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
First Blood T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Hickory S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
I-Beam T,TR 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Maple T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
New Generation - 5.12a T,S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Oak T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Pine S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Rambo S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Rambo Direct S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Roofing Madness S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Tricks T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
White Water T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Sport, 25 ft
FA: Al Pisaneschi
Page Views: 132 total, 3/month
Shared By: Sinner on Oct 20, 2013
Admins: Justin Johnsen, Kyle Stapp

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Description

Holzman calls this one of the best 12s in PA and I wouldn't argue, especially if you like crimps. The splashed orange color and rippling feet add to the enjoyment.

Angle up a left slanting rail to some small but reasonable holds to make the first clip. A fall here wouldn't be fun without a boulder pad (stick-clipping is for pansies). After the heinous clip blast through a thin section of micro-crimps and small feet. Another powerful move awaits after the second clip (also tough). Once established on the horizontal above the second bolt, take a deep breath and climb some easier ground to the anchors.

Location

Located at the first buttress after the opening amphitheater, look for brilliant orange lichen plastering the wall. Climbing direct without out the left-leaning rail adds a number grade. New anchors but no chains or rap rings.

Protection

two bolts, trad gear can be added but isn't necessary

Photos

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First Ascent Correction: Bob D'Antonio was not present for the first ascent of Agent Orange. The route was established and lead by Al Pisaneschi; belayed by Matt Shaver in the early 80's. Mar 17, 2015