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Routes in Upper Ridge

Cori's Way TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c A0
Red Wind T,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Type: Trad, TR, 60 ft
FA: Alex Bury (TD 2013)
Page Views: 171 total, 3/month
Shared By: Alex Bury on Oct 14, 2013
Admins: andy patterson, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Crimp and edge your way up the steepest part of the wall.
A distinct crux right off the ground (5.10d) leads to 35 feet of sustained and unprotected moves on thin but excellent features (5.10b/c R).
At a good stance past the crux there is a place for some quality wires.
The uppermost part of the climb is a section of exposed 5.8 on buckets and dishes.

*a top-rope can easily be set up by combining a boulder and bushes for an anchor. Make sure to bring plenty of webbing or static line to extend the anchor over the lip*

Location

Approach Distances to Upper Ridge Area
from:
Intersection of Fox Cyn. trail and Foothill trail - .5 miles
The Foot - 1.15
The Hideout - .85

Protection

Nothing for the first 35 feet (the crux). A thin crack above the ledge toward the top offers an opportunity for some small stoppers.

Photos

Alex Bury
Ojai, CA
 
Alex Bury   Ojai, CA
 
Four years this month, goes pretty fast.
Some historical notes:

Red Wind was named after the Santa Ana winds that blow through our region, often around this time of year. When I was first considering how to do the line, I decided not to do it ground up, since the obvious crux was covered in friable plates.

After cleaning the route, we were having a good time top roping it when a hiker happened by. He looked wide eyed and beelined off the trail towards us. I recognized him instantly as Himalayan heavyweight Rick Ridgeway, member of the first American team to climb K2.

He introduced himself, making no mention of his background, and was blown away to randomly come across climbers here.
He said,“Looks cool! How hard is it?”
I told him, “Hard 5.10”.

“It looks at least that hard.” He scratched his head. “So....you’re toproping it?”

I was immediately embarrassed to be tr’ing it, and I never admitted knowing who he was. I eventually led the route on gear. But in the four years since, I’ve rarely let a little loose rock scare me off from a proper traditional FA. Oct 30, 2017