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Routes in Cabbage Patch

A Bit Slopey V4+ 6B+
Between The Dean (Dean's Problem Right) V4 6B PG13
Boone's Bane V5 6C
Christopher Reeve V2 5+
Circus Freak V2 5+
Cronin's Slab V1-2 5
Dean Problem V5-6 6C+
Dean Problem - Arete V2 5+
Double Dyno V2 5+
Fat Albert Gang V3 6A
Fungus V5 6C
Jack's Slab V2 5+
Monolith, The TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c V3 6A
Tight Shirts Face V1 5
Tom's Problem V5 6C
Ugly Crack V2-3 5+
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Type: Boulder, 10 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,769 total · 31/month
Shared By: Emerson Takahashi on Oct 7, 2013
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route

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Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Description [Suggest Change]

Fun route to get on after warming up on the other problems in the area.
Climb up the arete to the right of Fat Albert, topping out with some technical sloper work.

The first few moves seem just a tad bit harder for shorter folk, as the starting foot will probably be too far down to reach the sidepull.

Location [Suggest Change]

Just to the right of Fat Albert.
Start left hand on a crimpy pinch, and right hand around arete on small crimp.
Top out using slopers to the right of where you started(don't finish on the same face as Fat Albert Gang)
Downclimb using the trees leaning against the boulder

Protection [Suggest Change]

a pad or two is plenty. Flat landing


Danie White
Danie White   SLC, UT
Really fun techy problem. The black book lists this at V3. A little tricky though? Oct 19, 2013
Nat Smale
Salt Lake City, UT
Nat Smale   Salt Lake City, UT
I think that the V5 rating is for the sit start. Oct 20, 2013
Emerson Takahashi
Casper, WY
Emerson Takahashi   Casper, WY
yes, v5 is from the sit.

I do agree that the higher start goes at about v3 Jan 27, 2014
Greg Gavin
Greg Gavin   SLC, UT
you guys think the sit is v5? definitely easier than smiley right stand which is supposedly v4. i guess if you're short the reach to the sidepull is pretty big, but maybe you guys use the intermediates? Oct 24, 2014
Nat Smale
Salt Lake City, UT
Nat Smale   Salt Lake City, UT
Felt V5 to me. I thought it was a full grade harder than Smiley Right, but then again, I find the stand start almost as hard as Smiley Right. I got the side pull but was completely stretched out. Oct 24, 2014
Small Lake, UT
Boissal   Small Lake, UT
Much harder than SR which is all about stretching to a jug. Fungus is a relatively big move to a piss-poor hold. V5 feels right. Oct 24, 2014
Garrett C
Garrett C   SL, UT
Felt much easier than smiley, and I did the sit start.. Oct 30, 2014
Emerson Takahashi
Casper, WY
Emerson Takahashi   Casper, WY
This is starting to sound like a competition for something so subjective and dependent on body type and strengths

It doesn't matter what we think about the grade, if you think its easier, mark it down. Nov 1, 2014
Greg Gavin
Greg Gavin   SLC, UT
It's just a discussion Emerson. Chill out Nov 4, 2014
Emerson Takahashi
Casper, WY
Emerson Takahashi   Casper, WY
chill as a cucumber greg!

personally, i find the first reachy move of smiley right easier, just due to the fact that there's a high foot. i, like nat, was totally stretched out once i got on the sidepull on fungus Nov 4, 2014
what is the problem if you do the sit start and move right to a crimp and then move up to a side pull and straight up to a slopey top out?

Feels just as hard as fungus if not a little more technical. I suppose it's a fungus right variation. Oct 17, 2016
J Saarela
Park City
J Saarela   Park City
Super fun top out. Got over the lip a couple different ways, one spicier than the other (depends where you step with the left).

While we're comparing different problems at "V5," I thought Isabelle's at Gate was a good bit harder. Woohoo LCC grades! Though, as mentioned, Fungus, Smiley Right, and Isabelle's are all a bit different styles... Besides the idea that they all start with one powerful move and ease up considerably from there. Oct 26, 2017
Trenton G
Trenton G   SLC
Great problem. Did the sit but couldn't find something that felt natural for the V3, do you start on the high side-pull ? Mar 28, 2018
flashed the sit for @bstockman17 May 9, 2018

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