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Routes in Elizabeth Boulder

Brutus V7 7A+
La traversée de l'orque V6 7A
Pohp-Tart V5 6C PG13
Slapping the Belly of a Whale V10 7C+
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Type: Boulder, 12 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 95 total · 2/month
Shared By: Colin Rickert on Sep 15, 2013
Admins: Luc-514

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Access Issue: Site access fees - Frais d'accès Details

Description

Brutus starts on the backside of the Elizabeth Boulder on a vertical side pull rail for the left hand and high right flat hold on a sloping ramp feature for the right. There are several different ways to do this including what I call "short" and "tall" beta. The short beta involves slapping up the left hand rail until you can high step your right foot next to your hand and deadpoint with your right hand into the sharp right crimp (need to be short and/or flexible). The tall beta (which I used) is to leave your feet a bit lower and leave your left hand lower onto the rail (where you start) to power up and deadpoint the sharp crimp in one move. I would say the tall beta is more straight-forward and powerful and the short beta involves more body contortion and flexibility (doesn't work for me). After the crimp you still have to move your left hand up into an awkward crack feature and then top out using some good holds out left of the crack (harder for those who have no crack technique).

Location

Backside of the Elizabeth boulder

Protection

3 pads is ideal - landing is covered by logs/trees and is a bit rocky and often wet.

Photos

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Colin Rickert
Ottawa, ON
  V7
Colin Rickert   Ottawa, ON
  V7
Video Here:

youtube.com/watch?v=tLxwerw… Sep 15, 2013
Colin Rickert
Ottawa, ON
  V7
Colin Rickert   Ottawa, ON
  V7
Downrated to V7-ish Mar 28, 2016

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