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Routes in Spanky's Playground

Annakarina S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Cuckold S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Even Tide S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Kiddy Crack T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Look Both Ways T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Retreat! T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Tachycardia T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Unsupervised T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: David Bruneau/Phil Stennett
Page Views: 236 total, 5/month
Shared By: David Bruneau on Sep 11, 2013
Admins: Phil Stennett

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Description

This is a fun route, especially if you're sick of face climbs. It climbs the giant roof to the climbers right of the Breech Boulder. It is made even more fun by the fact that the beginning of the route is underwater even at low tide.

Wait until the waves draw back enough then quickly walk to base and perform a few slippery crack and layback moves (crux). Getting to the base may take few attempts. Dry your feet and climb this quickly widening crack into the slot to the ceiling. Take the path of least resistance right and up through the chimney/roof to the top. Remember to back-clean some pieces to protect your second.

Location

To the right of the Breech Boulder, starts in a right facing corner.

Protection

Standard rack from 0 mastercam to #6 camalot. Make sure you have a #5 and 6 or two #5's. Long slings to alleviate rope drag. Gear belay.

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