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> Spanky's Playground
Retreat!
5.8 YDS 5b French 16 Ewbanks VI- UIAA 15 ZA HVS 4c British
Avg: 3 from 2
votes
Routes in Spanky's Playground
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Annakarina S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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As You Like It S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Breech S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Child's Play T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Cuckold S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Even Tide S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Fisherman's Line T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Insomnia S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Kiddy Crack T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Look Both Ways T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Me Lady S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Meat Grinder T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Mr. Longarm T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Much Ado about Nothing S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13 |
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Retreat! T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Rising Tide S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a |
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Slippery In My Mind T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Spanky's Crack T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Tachycardia T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R |
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Taming of the Shrew S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Toil and Trouble S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Trench Warfare T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Twelth Night T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Unsupervised T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Wet Dreams T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Wishing It Wouldn't End T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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| Type: | Trad, 50 ft (15 m) |
| FA: | David Bruneau/Phil Stennett |
| Page Views: | 842 total · 6/month |
| Shared By: | David Bruneau on Sep 11, 2013 |
| Admins: | David Bruneau |
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Description
This is a fun route, with unique and interesting climbing. It climbs the giant roof to the climbers right of the Breech Boulder. It is made even more fun by the fact that the beginning of the route is underwater even at low tide.
Wait until the waves draw back enough, then quickly run to the base and perform a few slippery crack and layback moves (crux). Getting to the base may take few attempts. Dry your feet and climb this quickly widening crack into the slot to the ceiling. Take the path of least resistance right and up through the chimney/roof to the top. Remember to back-clean some pieces to protect your second.
Wait until the waves draw back enough, then quickly run to the base and perform a few slippery crack and layback moves (crux). Getting to the base may take few attempts. Dry your feet and climb this quickly widening crack into the slot to the ceiling. Take the path of least resistance right and up through the chimney/roof to the top. Remember to back-clean some pieces to protect your second.
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