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Routes in Spanky's Playground

Annakarina S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Cuckold S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Even Tide S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Kiddy Crack T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Look Both Ways T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Retreat! T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Tachycardia T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Unsupervised T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
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Elevation: 32 ft
GPS: 47.697, -52.699 Google Map · Climbing Map
Page Views: 1,077 total, 19/month
Shared By: Phil Stennett on Apr 18, 2013
Admins: Phil Stennett
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Description

A seemingly small area of short cliffs that nevertheless offers a lot of good, fun climbs of all difficulties. This area can stay cool even on very hot days but is best avoided if the sea is very rough.

Getting There

Park at the pull-off on Wades Lane and walk back along the road to the ATV trail before the houses as in the attached picture. When you meet the main trail cross straight over to a trail down the other side. This trail leads down to some loose rock that you need to scramble down and then head south to the top of the face. The easiest way to get down is the rappel from the bolts of a climb but there is also a trail that can be scrambled down.

NOTE: The old trail directly above the pull off has recently been marked with private property signs. Please avoid using this trail to prevent potential access issues. The new trail is just as easy, if not a little easier anyway.

8 Total Climbs

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