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Routes in Upper Psychoactive Wall

Alien Semen Rash S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Baby Model S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Gloom S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Go Back to Colorado S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Mirth S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Psychoactive S 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Shut the Fuck Up S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Suck the Nipple S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Under the Influence S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
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Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: Alli Rainey
Page Views: 647 total · 11/month
Shared By: Nick Stayner on Sep 9, 2013
Admins: Mike Snyder

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33 Opinions

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Description

Classic pocket pulling on the peanut-buttery variety of Tensleep rock. Gets progressively harder the higher you get. Deep, incut pockets of all shapes and sizes on this one. One of the best of the grade in Tensleep, similar to Joy of Heresy at the Ark.

Location

Right where the trail for Upper Psychoactive meets the wall. Large horizontal break at the bottom of the route.

Protection

9 or 10 bolts, drop-in sport anchors

Photos

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Mike Snyder
Cody, WY
  5.11b
Mike Snyder   Cody, WY  
  5.11b
This one has been called .10+,.11 and .11+ in different Huey guides over the years. It will probably settle at .11b much like the controversial Wyoming Flower Child, both of which are significantly harder for shorter climbers. Sep 10, 2013
Lena chita
OH
  5.11d
Lena chita   OH
  5.11d
Easy 5.10 climbing most of the way, gets to be easy-11ish at the next to last bolt, but the only 11d moves are after the last bolt. A bit reachy if you are short. Jul 8, 2014
lech
  5.11c
lech  
  5.11c
This route would make a classic 5.10 if the chains where just a few feet lower. Jul 4, 2016
Luke Bertelsen
Tucson, AZ
  5.11d
Luke Bertelsen   Tucson, AZ  
  5.11d
I agree with the above comments. This climb has you chugging along at fun 5.10 moves then WHAM!...... you're pulling a stout boulder problem from the last bolt to the chains. At least it's a fun boulder problem. Oct 3, 2016
Dylan Pike
Sandy, UT
5.11c
Dylan Pike   Sandy, UT
5.11c
Relatively easy (but fun!) climbing to one hard move below the chains. Felt soft. Jul 9, 2018

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