Avg: 2.6 from 8 votes
Routes in Upper Psychoactive Wall
|Alien Semen Rash S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Gloom S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a|
|Go Back to Colorado S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b|
|Mirth S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a|
|Psychoactive S 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c|
|Shut the Fuck Up S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c|
|Suck the Nipple S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a|
|Under the Influence S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b|
|Type:||Sport, 80 ft|
|FA:||Equipped by Mike Decker, FA Matt Wendling, 2005|
|Page Views:||105 total, 2/month|
|Shared By:||Mike Snyder on Sep 10, 2013|
DescriptionChoose your 5.10 entry method to attain the crack system. Pick your way through the first steeper roof to find a great jug undercling just below the small roof. Figure out and execute what could be the hardest '.12a' move in the canyon. Scamper up easy but off balance moves to the anchor. Fun climbing but quite difficult to onsight. Anchor should be moved 6 feet to the left to avoid rope drag. Anyone?
LocationThis route starts from the highest part of the Upper Pyschoactive Wall basically right in the center. Begin on either Alien Semen Rash 5.10 clipping 6 bolts and optionally the right anchor shut and then stepping right to gain the dihedral/crack system OR begin on Fangs 5.13d and climb up to and past the small ledge clipping 6 bolts and then stepping left into the dihedral/crack via a linking bolt.
Follow the right angling dihedral/crack through the small roof to the same anchors for Fangs.
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