| Type: | Sport, 80 ft (24 m) |
| GPS: | 44.08094, -107.30567 |
| FA: | Equipped by Mike Decker, FA Matt Wendling, 2005 |
| Page Views: | 992 total · 7/month |
| Shared By: | Mike Snyder on Sep 10, 2013 |
| Admins: | Mike Snyder, Taylor Spiegelberg, Jake Dickerson |
No new route development is allowed until further notice. On July 19, 2019, the US Forest Service issued a notice that it would no longer allow the installation of new bolts or the creation of new climbing routes after manufactured routes were established, then subsequently removed/altered by climbers. In addition, the bolts/fixed anchors on an estimated 50 climbs at Ten Sleep have been affected in some manner that may or may not make them unsafe to climb. The list of altered routes can be found in a drop down on the main, "Ten Sleep Canyon" homepage. The US Forest Service, Powder River Ranger District, is actively working with the local LCO, the Bighorn Climbers' Coalition and Access Fund to develop a sustainable framework for route standards and a Climbing Management Plan for the canyon's future.
Description
Choose your 5.10 entry method to attain the crack system. Pick your way through the first steeper roof to find a great jug undercling just below the small roof. Figure out and execute what could be the hardest '.12a' move in the canyon. Scamper up easy but off balance moves to the anchor. Fun climbing but quite difficult to onsight. Anchor should be moved 6 feet to the left to avoid rope drag. Anyone?
Location
This route starts from the highest part of the Upper Pyschoactive Wall basically right in the center. Begin on either Alien Semen Rash 5.10 clipping 6 bolts and optionally the right anchor shut and then stepping right to gain the dihedral/crack system OR begin on Fangs 5.13d and climb up to and past the small ledge clipping 6 bolts and then stepping left into the dihedral/crack via a linking bolt.
Follow the right angling dihedral/crack through the small roof to the same anchors for Fangs.



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