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Routes in North Peak - West Face

Bell , The T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Bray No More T,S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Bray To The Lord T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Circumflex T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Hooked on a Feeling T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Inherent Contradictions T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Kauffman's Rib T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Madmen Only T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Malevolence T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Mistaken Identity T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Negative Feedback T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
No Dally Alley T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Northway T 5.1 2 6 II 7 MD 2a
One Stop T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Pine Tree Traverse T 5.1 2 6 II 7 MD 2a
Princess Snowbird T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Psycho Killer T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Psycho Warfare T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b X
Silent But Deadly T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Snickers T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
That's Reality T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a X
Thunderbolts T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Up Front T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
West Face to Gunsight Notch T 5.1 2 6 II 7 MD 2a
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 140 ft
FA: Kauffman and party, 1955
Page Views: 825 total, 16/month
Shared By: Mark Maier on Sep 8, 2013
Admins: Ladd, Vicki Schwantes, Jake Jones, Shawn Heath

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Description

Kauffman's Rib climbs the south edge of the Euro Wall/No Dally Alley detached flake. It rises in two major steps with lower angle and traversing sections in-between. From the amount of lichen on the route it obviously sees very little traffic. There is considerable loose debris on the upper part as you traverse north along the narrow edge of the flake.

If you head up here you'll certainly leave the crowds behind, and you can get a unique perspective on the more popular areas and the No Dally Alley. You can also appreciate 1950's Seneca style "5.4," (overhanging steps along the rib, don't get on it if you think Conn's West is hard). It is possible, but inconvenient to return to the start once you are done. Take all your stuff and traverse the north peak to get down.

The climb can be done in one pitch, but rope drag and communication concerns may make you want to break it up. There are nice belay spots below each of the steps.

Location

The easiest way to get to the route is to climb the first part of West Face to Gunsight and keep moving up the ramp to the north after the 5.0 step. If you keep going on the ramp you'll hit the south entrance to No Dally Alley and Kauffman's Rib will be obviously rising to your left.

Once you get to the top of the formation keep going north until you find the chockstone bridge or a spot you are willing to jump across to the main North Peak formation. Scramble up through lichen, dirt, and plants until you get to the North Peak ridge. Turn north to hit the tourist trail.

Protection

Standard gear on the steep steps, not much gear on the traverses. A couple of very ancient pitons.

Photos

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