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Routes in The Alcove

Bell Curve A.K.A. Silent But Deadly S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Butter Face S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
California Stars S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Dirty, Rotten Scoundrel S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
First Time Out S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Grilled Cheese aka Burger S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Groove Is In The Heart S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Groove Tube S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Guiding Light S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Keep On Keepin' On S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Lunch Bucket A.K.A. Romper Room S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Lunch Bucket? (dubbed No Se) S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
New Arete AKA Entrance Exam S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Past Tense S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Rain of Terror S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Right of Test Drive TR 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Test Drive S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Thunder Thighs S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Tropical Depression S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Viper Room S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Ze Boom Boom Room S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Type: Sport, 75 ft
FA: Garrett Reigan Eric Wright, Ariel Wiertenberger
Page Views: 484 total · 9/month
Shared By: Eric Wright on Sep 2, 2013
Admins: Edward Medina, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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This is one of the driest route in Ouray, certainly for the grade. It's a squeeze job in between our other route to the right, Dirty Rotten Scoundrel and the outstanding Ze Boom Boom Room to the left. When everything else is dripping wet, this one is often dry, and it faces south, so it dries quickly if it's been pouring out. Further, unlike some other steeper routes in the alcove that also might be dryish, the anchors on this climb do not become wet before the rest of the route. So, if it's raining out, don't despair.


This route is in the Alcove area on the Pool Wall in Ouray.


It has its own starting bolt. Then it shares two bolts on the climb to the right. Then it has its own nasty, left handed throw to a friendly hold. Tall, skinny people will love this. Also, people that like to climb even when everyone else is whining about the rainy weather will love this. The bolts are stainless steel Fixe 3/8" 3.5 inch.

There is a three bolt anchor at the top. The chains are too skinny as of August 2013 and will get up graded.


Eric Wright
Telluride CO.
Eric Wright   Telluride CO.
As for the first bolt, Garrett put all the bolts in and hung all the gear. I helped from the ground. I can't micro manage everything(especially not him).

In addition, that rock is crazy chossy, you can't just bolt where you want, but I agree a fall at the first bolt could wreak a biner. If you tap with your hammer around that area, you will not find much solid rock. Oct 8, 2013
Eric Wright
Telluride CO.
Eric Wright   Telluride CO.

You must have a really big dog.

I totally agree with you. Those chains were the wrong ones dragged out of the back of the truck. Oops. There is three of them though?!
At any rate, they need to be changed out. I will nag Garrett about that again.

If you change them, I will pay you for the chain and links and buy you a beer.

And belay you for a burn on your project:-) Oct 8, 2013
Ouray, CO
Highlander   Ouray, CO
I would not chain my dog up with those skinny chains, lol. First bolt not in the best position, could load the biner over the edge if someone fell on it. Oct 5, 2013

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