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Routes in Poultry Pillar - West

Chicken Slinger T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Historic Route T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Type: Trad, 90 ft
FA: Kevin Vowles & Rick Thompson, June 1999
Page Views: 176 total, 3/month
Shared By: Matt Schroer on Aug 28, 2013
Admins: grk10vq, WAGbag, Mike Engle

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BLM Managed Lands at Castle Rocks PERMANENTLY CLOSED TO CLIMBING!! Castle Rocks State Park lands are OPEN TO CLIMBING Details

Description

The left (north) most route on the west face of Poultry Pillar. With overhanging jug pulls onto the summit, the last 20 feet are what really make this route worth doing.

Location

This route is on Poultry Pillar, a spur pillar of Castle Rock. Start at the same point for Drumstick Direct (the bottom of the face), but traverse left about 15 feet, either right away or gradually. Rappel from cold shuts on the summit.

Protection

Really good pro options pretty much everywhere. A few offset cams could be the bees knees at the start, as the bottom cracks are flared, but I found ample opportunities for hexes, nuts, and DMM offsets. There is a set of cold shuts with a rappel ring on the south end of the summit. There is also a bolt for clipping into while setting up the rappel, although it's not needed.

Photos

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Rick Thompson
Mount Nebbiolo, CO
Rick Thompson   Mount Nebbiolo, CO
Following are my notes from the FA of this route:

Using the same start as the Chicken Singer, traverse 15 feet left to reach the most leftward flake on the face, which leads up to a patinaed bulging face. Continue to the base of the tower and climb left-leaning cracks to a wild finish! FA: Kevin Vowles & Rick Thompson, June 1999

For what it's worth, we rated it 5.8 ** Jun 1, 2014
Blake Summers
Park City, Utah
 
Blake Summers   Park City, Utah
 
I thought this was really fun. May 23, 2014