Avg: 3 from 1 vote
|Type:||Trad, Alpine, 1200 ft, 7 pitches, Grade III|
|FA:||NM and Ben Coyle, 8/13|
|Page Views:||338 total · 4/month|
|Shared By:||Nik Mirhashemi on Aug 26, 2013|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac|
Pitch 2. Instead of climbing that unholy and scrappy chimney, this pitch ascends a hand and finger crack through two small roofs just left of the chimney and then ends at a ledge with a prominent dead tree. Watch for deathblocks when pulling the second roof (200 feet, 5.9).
Pitch 3. From the belay ledge, head up and skirt left around the headwall into a thin, black dihedral system and belay on a ledge (200 feet, 5.9+).
Pitch 4. Ascend ledges to a large overhang and make improbable moves through the overhang, placing a medium cam in a mossy, wet crack. This pitch ends on a large terrace where you will have a great view of the Temple (200 feet, 5.9).
Hike up the terrace to the base of the Temple, aiming for a blocky corner and chimney system a bit right of the prominent pillar on the left side of the formation.
Pitch 5. Ascend the blocky corner for most of a ropelength to a ledge that is more or less level with the start of the corner system of the pillar (180 feet, 5.8).
Pitch 6. Make a delicate and runout traverse to the corner system and belay on a small ledge partway up the corner at the base of a slot (200 feet, 5.8).
Pitch 7. We did this last pitch in the dark, so all I can tell you is to head up and right until you top out. Watch for rope drag (200 feet, 5.8).
Descent - now here comes the real business. There is no rap line on the entire formation (didn't think it was wise to aimlessly rap into the nothingness of a new moon night), and so the only way off is to hike. Basically we just headed south and down, skirting the top of the cliff line until we found a way down. Prepare yourself for lots of intense bushwhacking (or should I say bushswimming?), and don't be surprised if you get cliffed out a time or two. Also be careful when traversing around alcoves and overhangs on the way down. We came across a very strange and disturbing noise while trying to get around a cliffband that sounded a lot like hissing and growling. This is adventure climbing from start to finish. Have fun!