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Routes in Humane Society Wall

Dogcatcher, The S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Fido S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Humane Society T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
License Required S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Roofus T,S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Roofus Variation T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Sick Puppies S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Type: Sport, 40 ft
FA: Eric Klement and Steve Habovstak, 1989
Page Views: 373 total, 7/month
Shared By: Danie White on Aug 25, 2013
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Description

Awesome route with great bolting on bomber quartzite but bring the pump repellent as the climbing is continuously vertical, crimpy, and technical for such a short route. There are some key holds that are hard to identify from the ground due to the swirled nature of the rock, so do your best to read it in advance, but realize you may have to do a little on-sighting while on route. And just when you think you've crimped enough, voila!, an interesting undercling and some better holds finish things off. Well worth the hike just for this one route but there are plenty of other interesting ones right nearby.

Location

Find your way to the main wall of the Humane Society Area. The main wall is the northwest facing wall at the top of the talus field and it is also the furthest wall to the west. Fido is located between the routes Humane Society (10.b mixed) on the left and Sick Puppies (12.b sport) on the right. It shares a first bolt with Humane Society before breaking right. Fido is directly above a water seep frequented by wasps (which seemed to leave us well enough alone). There is a ramp angling up and right from which you can execute the start moves if you choose not to tempt the wasps with a more direct start.

Protection

5 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor with chains. No additional gear required.

Photos

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Landon McBrayer
Salt Lake City, UT
 
Landon McBrayer   Salt Lake City, UT
 
Best 5.11 at the crag. Well bolted and cryptic; lots of fake-out holds that look good but actually suck. Aug 31, 2014