Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: Don McGlone, Joel Petrino 2011
Page Views: 1,459 total · 23/month
Shared By: Raiden on Aug 21, 2013
Admins: saxfiend, Jason Halladay, Shirtless Mike

You & This Route


96 Opinions

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Access Issue: This area is within the PMRP which is private property owned by the RRGCC. Details

Description

Climb just right of a crack using face holds and and the crack to make it to a bulging feature just before the anchors. This route can be climbed on gear.

Location

Right of Banjolero and left of Jingus Khan, this route stays right of a crack feature.

Protection

~5 bolts

Photos

I believe the guidebook says 6 bolts, but it is only 5. This means that after the 5th bolt (which you can see from ground) it is a tad runout to the chains, which includes pulling a slightly "heady" move. Chill for climbers who are confident at that level, not great for the beginner 5.8 leader. Oct 20, 2016
Jackie Bobackie
Detroit, MI
Jackie Bobackie   Detroit, MI
Completely agree with Dan. 5 bolts, not 6, but it's never bad to bring an extra.
This was my first 5.8 on lead and it was definitely a spooky one, especially feeling run out at the end on a route without SUPER awesome hands at the chains. There might be a longer wait, but if you're new to lead and want to climb a 5.8, hop on Boilerplate first. Apr 18, 2017
Ethan Heald
Cincinnati
 
Ethan Heald   Cincinnati
 
A bit of a run-out finish. Crux is near the top. In the early morning it is in the shade. Jun 22, 2018