Type: Sport, 65 ft
FA: Jeff Neal, Theresa Neal 2008
Page Views: 801 total · 11/month
Shared By: TomCaldwell on Oct 26, 2012 with updates from bluewaters182
Admins: saxfiend, Jason Halladay, Shirtless Mike

You & This Route


78 Opinions

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Access Issue: This area is within the PMRP which is private property owned by the RRGCC. Details

Description

A fun steep and pocketed route that saves the crux for the last move.

Start in a dihedral feature where left wall is covered in pockets. Make the easy moves to get to the first bolts. Get into the dihedral feature using and use the steep pockets to get through the next few bolts. Move left at the top onto a flake feature on the left face. Hurry up and make the last few tough moves before your arms give out and clip the anchors.

Location

This route starts in a alcove feature 50' left of Boilerplate. Look for the obvious pockets left of a dihedral and a flake on the left face near the top. A 60m will get you down.

Protection

QD's for 7 bolts and a two-bolt anchor at the top.

Photos

John Gassel
Somerville, MA
  5.10c
John Gassel   Somerville, MA
  5.10c
This was an awesome route! Get on it if you're in the area. A few friends that did the route with me felt it was a bit heady around the last bolt or two - I just thought it got a bit pumpy. :) Jun 11, 2014
polloloco
Boston
  5.10c
polloloco   Boston
  5.10c
Agree with John - got a little pumpy but not really heady. Jun 25, 2014
Dann  
The move from the last bolt to the anchors is definitely the heady crux. It gets pretty thin to the left but I tried heading out to the right and found a nice little lip for toes and pulled myself into the crack for a great rest spot. From that position there is a nice crimp that you can crank up on and throw for a bomber hold at the top which brings you even with the chains. A small move over left to a decent ledge handhold and you are home free! May 31, 2016
Jocelyn Bourque
North York
Jocelyn Bourque   North York
I'd add an S rating to this route. Slightly under the first bolt there's a bomber hold but when I went to grab it and clip I noticed something moving besides it. A fricken snake was right besides it with its tongue out. Fucked with my head game the rest of the route. Still a super fun route tho. :) May 3, 2018