Mountain Project Logo

Routes in The Misfits Wall

Astro Zombies S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Hollywood Babylon S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
London Dungeon S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Type: Sport, 500 ft, 6 pitches, Grade II
FA: PD / SVS
Page Views: 1,763 total · 33/month
Shared By: gimpmonkey on Aug 19, 2013
Admins: Edward Medina, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


4 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

This is the first route on the Misfits Wall heading pretty much up the center. There are 2 easy sections of 4th class between pitches 1-2 and 2-3, the rest is fine, moderate quartzite climbing with an awesome 5.10 last pitch.

Pitch 1. 5.9. Start right of the pine tree at the base of Misfits Wall. Head for the A-frame break in the overlap above (crux). 6-7 bolts + 2 bolt anchor. Move belay over 4th class above to base of wall behind huge pine tree.

Pitch 2. 5.8+. Follow 6 bolts up amazing face. You can get an optional fingers to midsize cam midway.

Var. London Dungeon climbs the obvious, left-facing corner to the right. It is steep and awkward with powerful smearing. Face the wrong way, and it will feel like you've been put on the rack! 4 bolts, #0.5/0.75 Camalot.

Pitch 3. 5.4. Step out of belay nook, and go left towards the gully across slabs/corners with 1 bolt, then 4th Class up to large ledge system with rappel anchor on wall.

Pitch 4. 5.9. Start to the right of gully following 6 bolts up good rock. A finger cam after last bolt gets you up to a 2 bolt belay in V-slot.

Pitch 5. 5.9+. Mantel out of V slot, up across slab to bolts on wall. 4 bolts lead up through some shite rock and some good rock...it will get your attention. A finger cam protects after the bolts and leads up to 2 bolt anchor at the base of a ramp and the headwall.

Pitch 6. 5.10. Start up corner/ramp to the right placing wide hands/hands cams to reach 3 bolts on wall. Pure enjoyment follows as you surmount the headwall through the railroad tracks, but you gotta find the holds first! A finger cam over the lip, and a higher bolt gets you to the anchor on top.

Var. 5.7 R. Continue up ramp passing bolts, turn corner and continue back left to summit.

Rappel the route. A 60 meter rope can make all the rappels except down pitch 4, but you can step into the gully and downclimb if you need to. Be careful on the awkward sideways rap on pitch 3, especially in the rain.

Location

Approach as for Waterfall Wall/Princess Ella's.... Continue past the start of PEMA 30 yds until you reach a fixed hand line. Head straight up above handline to big pine tree at the base of the rock and bolts.

Protection

7-8 quickdraws and a few cams from fingers to #3 Camalot.
Highlander
Ouray, CO
Highlander   Ouray, CO
Some of the anchors could use a quicklink or two. Pitch 2 anchor could use one quic link, and pitch 5 anchor could use 2 quicklinks. Currently twists rope really badly when pulling rappels. Sep 27, 2015
S.Mckinna
Cañon City, CO
  5.9+
S.Mckinna   Cañon City, CO
  5.9+
This is a really fun route! I would only bring one blue, yellow, and orange TCU or equivalent and one #3 Camalot. It can comfortably be done without the cams too. Aug 29, 2014