Said the Duchess to the Cardinal
5.8+ YDS 5b French 16 Ewbanks VI- UIAA 15 ZA HVS 4c British R
Early Access
| Type: | Trad, 600 ft (182 m), 5 pitches |
| GPS: | 40.43666, -105.31171 |
| FA: | Todd Bol, Kyle O'Brien, Noel Cappozzalo, 7/25/2013 |
| Page Views: | 1,060 total · 7/month |
| Shared By: | Todd Bol on Jul 26, 2013 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
Per JF M: as of May 2022, there is no signage on-site, nor information on the USFS webpage for the Cameron Peak Fire (nor on their published map of closures) that indicates the area is closed.
Per Bruce Hildenbrand: it appears that the Forest Service has closed access to all the climbing areas accessed via Storm Mountain Road (Monastery, Cedar Park, Combat Rock, etc.) until they can clear all the dangerous dead trees from the Cameron Peak fire.
I worked this issue with Eric Murdock at the AF, and it looks like the Forest Service picked Devil's Gulch Road as the southern boundary even though all the climbing areas on MP.com were not burned.
Description
This route meanders to the top of the East Buttress in 5 adventurous pitches. It begins near the middle of the 'cirque' near the big flat rock with cairns.
Pitch one climbs up the black streak with a hand traverse right to gain water grooves and a couple belay trees.
Pitch two heads straight up a nice corner with hand cracks and jugs to a large belay tree.
Pitch three heads up and left to a steeper part of the wall. Pass right of the overhanging blocks to find easier climbing to another large belay tree.
Pitch four meanders more or less straight up on loose and dirty rockaineering terrain. Belay at a funky tree that was the victim of some wicked lightning.
Pitch five heads up and left to an arete of sorts with a shallow dihedral to the top. This exposed finish is very fun and has stellar views.
Savor the summit of the East Buttress before descending or hike to the summit of Palisade Mountain for extra credit.
We rapped the route with double ropes and left webbing and links at every belay tree. Be careful of rockfall and getting the ropes stuck on the somewhat unpleasant rappels.



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