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Routes in Full Charge Crag

Bite Me! Lorax S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Did You Eat Disco Biscuits? S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Fixing the Ferris Wheel S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Full Charge S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Jim Dandy to the Rescue S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Last Of The Pagans S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Mithras Equinox Shift Traverse 1, The S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Mithras Equinox Shift Traverse 2, The S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Oftedal Serenade S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Scepter of the Green Man S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Still Fuc%ing Waiting S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Swashbuckler S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Waiting For The Sun S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Wyld Stallions S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: Kevin Wilkinson, 2013
Page Views: 965 total, 18/month
Shared By: Mike Snyder on Jun 23, 2013
Admins: Mike Snyder

You & This Route


43 Opinions

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Description

Creep onto the wall under the roof and carefully ease you way through the first crux. Wind up and left to reach the giant pockets and traverse right, under the roof to turn the lip near the crack. Follow giant pockets up the creamy headwall. The black bulge guards the anchor, there are no more big buckets. Fantastic route! Long too.

Location

Follow the approach for Lake Point Crag, when you reach the cliff walk to the right. Cross two talus fields and find the towers with an alcove at the base.

Protection

10 bolts, 2 open shuts

Photos

Franck Vee
  5.11c/d
Franck Vee  
  5.11c/d
I don't see this warranting a 12a, but it's a solid 11+ considering the "anchor guard" above. I don't think this should be 12 because it's only 1-2 moves that are harder to really good jugs. If it were more sustained in that fashion maybe...

The lower part is more fun and more original in style, but more like 11-. You probably want to be confortable at 10+/11- for the traverse, or at least make sure you don't do anything stupid. Falling on the way right before clipping would suck.

To clean, ideally have your 2nd clean it. If your 2nd wants to lead it as well, he/she could leave only the last 3 bolts. Clean those going top rope from the belayer's strand. You DON'T want to remove the 3rd bolt if you do that - otherwise even on the TR you may be swigning to the tree.

Better than Grasshopper imo, that lower section is just great. Aug 14, 2017
Skyler Mavor
  5.11b/c
Skyler Mavor  
  5.11b/c
A bit of a zig-zag at the start, I'd recommend a stick clip of the second bolt with a sling, and sling the 3rd bolt as well. Even then the belayer won't really be able to see the climber above the roof. Be careful not to swing into the tree while cleaning the lowest bolt.

Bucking the trend here, but I felt that this was no harder than mid 5.11, maybe unless you're super short. Jul 30, 2017
Emerson Takahashi
Casper, WY
 
Emerson Takahashi   Casper, WY
 
Hardest moves on the route feel 11d, maybe 12a, but the cruxes(the start and finish IMO) are separated by easy climbing and tons of rests, including a no-hands rest after the roof traverse. Sep 12, 2016
Oya Bermek
Cary, NC
  5.11d
Oya Bermek   Cary, NC
  5.11d
It is rated 11d in the guidebook and it is definitely harder than 11c. That is a FANTASTIC route. Jul 31, 2016
Dan Brayack
Marmet, WV
Dan Brayack   Marmet, WV
Heard it was 12a and felt like 12a. Definitely an AWESOME ROUTE!! Jul 8, 2013