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Routes in Full Charge Crag

Bite Me! Lorax S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Did You Eat Disco Biscuits? S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Fixing the Ferris Wheel S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Full Charge S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Jim Dandy to the Rescue S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Last Of The Pagans S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Mithras Equinox Shift Traverse 1, The S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Mithras Equinox Shift Traverse 2, The S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Oftedal Serenade S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Scepter of the Green Man S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Still Fuc%ing Waiting S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Swashbuckler S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Waiting For The Sun S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Wyld Stallions S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Sport, 75 ft
FA: Charlie Kardalef, 2012
Page Views: 732 total, 13/month
Shared By: Mike Snyder on Jun 23, 2013
Admins: Mike Snyder

You & This Route


45 Opinions

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Description

The business of this route is right after you step off the ground and seems to be a bit harder the shorter you are. Great water sculpted pockets lead you up into a chimney. Stay left and continue up until you can step right and transfer onto the knife blade feature. Not very hard but very cool, opposing side pulls actually pull outward so you can walk your feet up this crazy fin. A great and unique CK creation.

Location

In the Alcove beginning on the steep streaked and pocketed wall on the left.

Protection

10 clips, chains

Photos

Emerson Takahashi
Casper, WY
 
Emerson Takahashi   Casper, WY
 
11- seems appropriate given the tough start of the route, but it eases up substantially after the first few bolts. Shimmy-ing up the coconut tree is probably in the 5.8/9 range. Sep 12, 2016
A. Bandos
Broomfield
A. Bandos   Broomfield
I'd argue the opening moves are 11- If you are not confident at the grade a stick clip of bolt 2 might be nice. The climb definitely eases up after bolt 3. Jul 24, 2016
Aaron Furman  
 
Haha, not the warm up we intended, but amazing none the less. We didnt have the book and it looked like a 5.9, after getting to the top realized it must have been a 5.10a/b

Don't think it to be a 5.11 Jul 27, 2015
Chris. T.  
 
A route worthy of its own song. Jul 9, 2013
Oftedal Serenade... like a tall glass of lemonade... on a hot summer's day... dooo daaa deeee daaa dummmmm. Jul 7, 2013