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Routes in (c) Left of the Roof

Burning Desire S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Choss Goggles S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Choss Revolution S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Culture Shock S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Demoralizer S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Die Hard with a Vengeance S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Double Agent S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Flesh and Blood S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Flexercise S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Inspiration S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Inspirational Frontiers S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Master Blaster S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Raging Raptor S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Trundle Trophy S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Type: Sport, 135 ft
FA: Louie Anderson 2004
Page Views: 284 total · 5/month
Shared By: Phillip Wiese on Feb 12, 2013
Admins: C Miller, Euan Cameron, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Open, with restrictions: Park on the street Details

Description

Multiple thin cruxes make for sustained climbing with the final crux coming just after the 100' anchors. Great climbing after the 100' anchors so make sure to go all the way to the top! If lowering with anything other than an 80m rope, lower to the 100' anchors, pull, then lower from there.

Location

Five feet right of Culture Shock at the base of a gold streaked face

Protection

16 bolts to a double ring anchor

Photos

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6 feet below the anchors and just to the left, there is a hefty block hanging precariously. Once you pass it, you can see that it's chained to the wall above and glued in place. After witnessing the huge exfoliation on the routes to the left; Culture Shock and Double agent ( and ending up finishing on this route to avoid the 30 foot runout and bird poop varnish that was hidden behind the fallen flakes) I found this chained up block and it was uber spooky. Be warned, since the block itself has a great crack to use on the underside, its sketchy at best and directly above the belay. Nov 26, 2015
Phillip Wiese
Bishop, CA
 
Phillip Wiese   Bishop, CA
 
The guidebook says 12c but it felt closer to 12b. Feb 12, 2013

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