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Routes in (c) Left of the Roof

Burning Desire S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Choss Goggles S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Choss Revolution S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Culture Shock S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Demoralizer S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Die Hard with a Vengeance S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Double Agent S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Flesh and Blood S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Flexercise S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Inspiration S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Master Blaster S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Raging Raptor S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Trundle Trophy S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Type: Sport, 90 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 930 total, 13/month
Shared By: Tyler Quesnel on Nov 1, 2011
Admins: C Miller, Euan Cameron, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Open, with restrictions: Park on the street Details

Description

Solid crimpy sequence off the ground leads to some long and/or technical moves. Shallows out a bit for some easy flake climbing to some steep jugs all for an interesting finish which will require some creative footwork on some slopey arete/dihedral.

Location

Directly right of the popular warm-up Flexercise.

Protection

12-15 bolts with double ring anchors at the top.

Photos

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Choncho  
Good quality. Fun Moves. Feb 4, 2013
gregory huey
Irvine, CA
  5.12b
gregory huey   Irvine, CA
  5.12b
Bagged the redpoint on Nov 17, 2011

I'd say the lower crux is definitely 12b. The upper crux - the blunt arete just below the P1 anchors - I'm less sure about. Originally it seemed very difficult to me, so I would have gone with 12b here also. But, its technical and balancy instead of strenuous. With practice on a specific sequence it now doesn't seem nearly so difficult. This crux was not at all intuitive to me. Now I'd say perhaps 11c/d - but still not really sure.

One cool aspect of the bottom crux is I have my way of doing it (short-person's - right of the bolt-line), and there is a totally different tall-person's way (left of the bolt-line, and atleast one other way I've seen it done. There are lots of options, which also contributes to the difficulty.

The route is also fairly sustained - there is a crimp-fest right after the lower crux (perhaps 11d?) and some excellent bouldery moves before the top crux. And some more 11d stuff in the middle. Its great all around. Nov 18, 2011