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Routes in The J Wall

J Wall, The S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Killer Joe S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Mind if I do a J? S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,449 total · 23/month
Shared By: Manjushri on Jan 11, 2013
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

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Access Issue: RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Details

Description

A steep start traverses slightly leftward and up to a slab finish. There is a direct start TR that goes at 5.12.

Location

The middle route on the wall.

Protection

5 bolts to chains.

Photos

BoulderCharles
  5.10+
BoulderCharles  
  5.10+
Fun route and worth doing if you are at the wall. Tough first move but fun, dynamic moves afterwards to the slab.

Time lapse of a semi-rad ascent: youtu.be/svGOeHo3rhQ Jan 12, 2014
MN norske
Henderson
  5.11a/b
MN norske   Henderson
  5.11a/b
10+ for sure. some good feet and balance movements will get you through the crux down low to 3rd bolt Mar 18, 2014
Climbed this yesterday. I am not familiar with the route, but It seems like a hold broke off about 18" above and to the right of the second bolt. Progressing past this point seems very difficult now.

Update: just read a comment in the tick marks from April 2014 about a rail breaking off past the second bolt. 5.10 climbers might want to avoid this route for now. Aug 18, 2014
Eric72
San Diego, CA
  5.10+
Eric72   San Diego, CA
  5.10+
Climbed this about a year ago, just climbed it last weekend and it seems like it's lost a lot of holds and become even more of a sketch fest. No longer felt anything like 10-. There's a loose block near the first bolt, as well. Dec 6, 2014
Sergey Shelukhin
Seattle, WA
  5.10b
Sergey Shelukhin   Seattle, WA
  5.10b
This route made my day after spending all day climbing at Panty Wall!
Great route. Still felt 10-, maybe it's height dependent though (I'm 6'3").

The side-flake below the first bolt feels like it's going to pull... the rest seemed pretty solid. Jan 3, 2015
Ancent
Reno, NV
  5.10+
Ancent   Reno, NV
  5.10+
Great short climb for the end of the day. 5.10+ compared to other nearby routes.

If a hold broke off, I'm not aware, but it's so safely bolted that it's worth it to try it out. We were told there's an anchor above to rap into if you want to TR or clean a failed attempt. Give it a go! Dec 31, 2015
Benj84
 
Benj84  
 
Just commenting to address the bombs, I climbed this about 3 weeks ago and it is a bit balancy but it is gym bolted on what feels like solid rock, definitely didn't sketch me out.
Felt soft to be 10+, in the guidebook it was 10c and that seemed reasonable to me. Jan 11, 2017
Zeno Hao
  5.10+
Zeno Hao  
  5.10+
Just went up this one over the weekend. The first clip seems a bit low, but it helps out when going for the second! Had to go with a crimpy side pull followed by some proper foot placement to reach the jug, but the rest of the route was quite straightforward after that. Third clip is straightforward once proper foot placement is found, and the last two clips on the slab are no different. Fun route! Mar 20, 2018

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