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Routes in Sky High Wall

First Amendment T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
I Don't Want No Scrub T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Never Alone T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
On the Fence T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Saratoga T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Second Amendment T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Second Helping T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Solar Grace T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Solo, Gracias T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
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Type: Trad, 200 ft, 2 pitches
FA: 20th Sept 2012 Tom Lane
Page Views: 159 total · 2/month
Shared By: Jay Harrison on Dec 24, 2012
Admins: Jim Lawyer

You & This Route


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Description

Challenging friction followed by a difficult overhang.
P1 105' 5.10a: (V1) Climb onto a rounded stance below a larger "scoop", clip a bolt then make difficult moves left, up, then back right to get into the scoop. Follow clean orange rock upward, passing 2 small overlaps before reaching a standing belay 35' below the overhang.
P2 95' 5.10b: Climb up easily (V2) to the overhang, to an awkward stance right of a left side-pull. Then make weird and strenuous moves to pass the obstacle. A short bit of unprotected 5.6+ climbing leads to easy slab. Move up left to the ouside edge of a corner facing right, and climb this to an oak tree.

The two variations, taken together, comprise "Bill of Rights", a means of doing this route at a moderate 5.8+ rating.
(V1) 5.8: Climb up the right-rising crack, make a funky move up onto a sloping ledge, and move back left to join the route. This bypasses the 5.10 start.
(V2) 5.8+: Climb up easy slab, heading to the left edge of the overhang. Climb through it on the left edge, and continue along the left edge of the face, rejoining the route at the outside corner.

Location

The high level spot toward the right side of largest unbroken expanse of rock, about 60' right of the left end of the area.

Protection

Standard Rack. A #4 C4 can be used as a directional just before the P1 belay.
There is a two-bolt anchor at the midstation, and a fixed anchor on the oak tree at the top.

Photos

This is a nice piece of climbing. Thanks for putting this up, Jay.
really nice slab climbing with well protected cruxes. single rack to #3 was fine for me....no nuts. Jun 11, 2018

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