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Routes in Sky High Wall

First Amendment T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
I Don't Want No Scrub T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Never Alone T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
On the Fence T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Saratoga T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Second Amendment T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Second Helping T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Solar Grace T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Solo, Gracias T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Type: Trad, 95 ft
FA: 2012ish, Peter Whitmore
Page Views: 509 total, 13/month
Shared By: Jay Harrison on Oct 30, 2014
Admins: Jim Lawyer

You & This Route


7 Opinions

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Description

Thoroughly cleaned, this would be one of the best pitches of its grade in the Adks. Enjoyable, challenging, and well-protected. The original start foot-traversed along a ledge up higher, but there is a tree root that makes this difficult now. Instead, climb up and left along the tilted block (same as Never Alone ), onto a stance below a left-facing, right-rising corner. Climb corner to a vertical crack on the left wall, then take this to a horizontal crack stance. Shift left a meter or two, then climb either another vertical crack or the abundant knobs on the slab to its right, to another horizontal break. Here, the crack thins and the wall steepens. Airy, exposed, but easy climbing leads to a good ledge. The top-out is scruffy.

Location

This route climbs the ramp/crack systems at the boundary between the Sky High Area and the Upper Walls area. Access it by taking the Upper Walls path off the East Path, then scrambling a short way up the steep, narrow ramp above the path just before breaking out to the view above the Provando Wall.
Begin same as Never Alone, on the right side of a tilted block forming the base of the wall, ~20m up the right-rising ramp right of Second Amendment.
The top of this route lies just left of the Jammer Wall ledge. One can traverse out the foot ledge of Goosesteps to join this route and finish on the lovely thin crack part, which is an easy way to set a TR for the 5.10s.

Protection

Standard Adk Rack. There is a tree anchor at the top, reinforced in spring 2016.

Photos

Valerie Bachinsky
West Sand Lake, NY
 
Valerie Bachinsky   West Sand Lake, NY
 
Really great climb. Fun, committing moves with good exposure. I really want to give it 4 stars but hesitate to because the base is a bit slopey and cramped. May 21, 2017