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On the Fence
5.4 YDS 4a French 12 Ewbanks IV UIAA 10 ZA VD 3c British
Avg: 3.5 from 11 votes
Type: | Trad, 95 ft (29 m) |
FA: | 2012ish, Peter Whitmore |
Page Views: | 2,401 total · 21/month |
Shared By: | Jay Harrison on Oct 30, 2014 |
Admins: | Morgan Patterson, Kevin MudRat MacKenzie, Jim Lawyer |
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Description
Thoroughly cleaned, this would be one of the best pitches of its grade in the Adks. Enjoyable, challenging, and well-protected. The original start foot-traversed along a ledge up higher, but there is a tree root that makes this difficult now. Instead, climb up and left along the tilted block (same as Never Alone ), onto a stance below a left-facing, right-rising corner. Climb corner to a vertical crack on the left wall, then take this to a horizontal crack stance. Shift left a meter or two, then climb either another vertical crack or the abundant knobs on the slab to its right, to another horizontal break. Here, the crack thins and the wall steepens. Airy, exposed, but easy climbing leads to a good ledge. The top-out is scruffy.
Location
This route climbs the ramp/crack systems at the boundary between the Sky High Area and the Upper Walls area. Access it by taking the Upper Walls path off the East Path, then scrambling a short way up the steep, narrow ramp above the path just before breaking out to the view above the Provando Wall.
Begin same as Never Alone, on the right side of a tilted block forming the base of the wall, ~20m up the right-rising ramp right of Second Amendment.
The top of this route lies just left of the Jammer Wall ledge. One can traverse out the foot ledge of Goosesteps to join this route and finish on the lovely thin crack part, which is an easy way to set a TR for the 5.10s.
Begin same as Never Alone, on the right side of a tilted block forming the base of the wall, ~20m up the right-rising ramp right of Second Amendment.
The top of this route lies just left of the Jammer Wall ledge. One can traverse out the foot ledge of Goosesteps to join this route and finish on the lovely thin crack part, which is an easy way to set a TR for the 5.10s.
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