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Routes in O'Neill Butte

East Face T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
North Face T Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c
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Type: Trad, 120 ft
FA: Not knowm
Page Views: 743 total · 10/month
Shared By: Floridaputz on Dec 8, 2012
Admins: Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick, Greg Opland

You & This Route


3 Opinions

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Description

Beautiful 1 pitch, great potection up the obvious open book on the East Face. The rock is soft so beware.

Location

Start down the Kiabab Trail on the S rim and descend to level even with O'Neil Butte. Head cross country to the base of the east face

Protection

Eats pro, great crack to the top. up to 3.5'

Photos

Floridaputz
Oakland Park, Florida
5.8
Floridaputz   Oakland Park, Florida
5.8
If you are at the Grand Canyon and don't mind some Hiking you will love this. Hike down the Kibab Trail until you are even with the tower and head overland. The Tower is Supai sandstone so it's pretty soft. But for GC this is a an awesome climb. Good pro with cams to 3', we had 2 ropes for the rap but I think a 70 would work. Dec 8, 2012
Benjamin Chapman
Small Town, USA
Benjamin Chapman   Small Town, USA
That's the South Kaibab Trail. Jul 11, 2014
"The rock is soft so beware. "

Made my day... Aug 8, 2014
Don Stump
Sierra Vista, AZ
  5.9+
Don Stump   Sierra Vista, AZ
  5.9+
Oct. 22, 2017
All, in all classic route with a two mile approach.

It looked so easy from the bottom and it the photos, but it felt more difficult than a 5.8 because of the bulge in the middle. I guess, if you are good a crack climbing it would be easier, but for me it felt like a solid 5.9+.

The route protected well; so well in fact, that I didn't have much gear at the top. Med Tri-cams would have been helpful, but I didn't bring any thinking my cams would be enough. I recommend having a BD#4 for this route. I placed mine a few times to insure that I wouldn't fall while placing something smaller or inching my way up the route until it found a home. I had more than a full rack and the only thing I had left when I reached the top was small cams. I placed three BD#.5, so it was nice to have more than just a standard rack.

Could easily do this route in two pitches because if you don't use long enough runners on a few of the placements the rope drag was horrendous (I made this mistake). Doing in two pitches also lets a less skilled climber finish the route because after a nice belay ledge the route sends at 5.6 with easy gear placements. Oct 23, 2017
Mike (GoatManMike) Speer   Phoenix, AZ
Pulling the bulge is definitely the crux, I used a small edge super high left foot at shoulder level and a fist jam / chicken wing deep in the crack, then proceeded to inch the whale move until I was over this feature. Most of the route is 5.8 but this (in my opinion) was a grade tougher.

I used a double rack of Camelots from 0.2 to 3. If I went back I would have ditched the smaller stuff below a 0.4, and maybe brought extra #2's and #3's (and maybe throw in a #4 for the bulge crux). Let it be noted that I stich up a route every 10-15' and didn't run it out that much, a better climber perhaps wouldnt need as much gear as I needed. Jan 29, 2018

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