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Routes in O'Neill Butte

East Face T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
North Face T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
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Description

O'Neill Butte is a obvious tower on the S Kaibab Trail.
The climb is on the east face. It's one Pitch, but we had two ropes for the rap. The large overhang finish can be bypassed to the left. I'm not sure if this overhang has ever been climbed. I found some really old "Tat" on top but I don't know if this was done free before our group in 1982.

Getting There

Descend S Kaibab Trail until you are at the approximate elevation as the base of the tower. Hike overland to East side of Tower. On the East face you will see a obvious open book with a crack system capped off by a large roof.

2 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at O'Neill Butte

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
 4
North Face
Trad 3 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 3
East Face
Trad
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
North Face
 4
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c Trad 3 pitches
East Face
 3
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
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Kaylee Catmull
Riverside, CA
Kaylee Catmull   Riverside, CA
That's the South Kaibab Trail. Jun 19, 2013
O'Neill is spelled with two Ls, named after a Captain of Teddy Roosevelt's Rough Riders.
It's also slightly misleading to claim 'The climb', as I know of at least six other lines on this summit with the potential for many more, possibly as good as the East Face. Apr 26, 2015
Floridaputz
Oakland Park, Florida
Floridaputz   Oakland Park, Florida
I climbed The East Face route, in 1982, see picture. If you actually read what I said I think I may have been the first to "free climb this route" It may have been climbed with aid. I have never heard anyone claim to have done this in the 30 + years since my group did it. I lived at the S Rim at the time. How about you ? you climb it ? May 12, 2015

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